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Waterfront dining in Greater Victoria

Even after the flower baskets have made their migratory trek to greenhouses, you can still enjoy the great outdoors thanks to spectacular views of the water — something even more pleasurable when combined with good food.

Even after the flower baskets have made their migratory trek to greenhouses, you can still enjoy the great outdoors thanks to spectacular views of the water — something even more pleasurable when combined with good food.

Given our island setting, you might expect a vast number of eateries from which to view the sun setting over the Pacific. But alas, much of the waterside land that is commercially zoned is owned by the government, which tends to use it for less esthetically pleasing purposes. Fortunately, there are exceptions. Here are some of the best.

Inner Harbour

With floor to ceiling windows and a position on the north shore, Lure Restaurant and Lounge offers unrivalled harbour views and opens in time for a view of the sunrise behind the downtown Victoria skyline in the winter months. Whole wheat blueberry almond pancakes served with fresh fruit salad or a prawn chorizo omelette with herbed potato hash make even the dullest breakfast meeting worth getting up for. For a change of pace, relax with spinach, artichoke and goat cheese fondue for lunch, or proscuitto-wrapped trout or smoked lamb sirloin with a wild mushroom crust for dinner.

At the Pacific Restaurant, take in the tall ships while you savour risotto with grilled fennel and eggplant caviar or a club sandwich with brined turkey, pancetta, avocado and grainy Dijon mustard with a mound of hand-cut fries for lunch. Other daytime options include afternoon tea and a weekend dim sum menu, each with a tea list as impressive as their substantial carte des vins. Visiting for dinner? Perhaps crisp skinned Arctic char with almond brown butter and French beans or laurel brined pork with heirloom bean cassoulet and Granny Smith butter.

A seat in the Bengal Lounge offers views of the entrance to our working harbour and a twice daily buffet featuring vegetarian, lamb and chicken curries, lentil soup, fresh greens, flat breads, wheat free vegetable bhajias and basmati rice, with cardamom scented crème brûlée to finish things off. If curry isn't your thing, perhaps cashew crusted Dungeness crab cakes paired with icy cucumber sunomono and fiery kimchi from the a la carte list will fit the bill.

If you can't visit Aura's patio in the warmer months, fear not. Inside, enjoy spectacular water views year round with dishes from the all-day lounge menu including mussels bathed in citrus butter and Riesling, with fries, aioli and warm baguette. From the evening menu, choose a grilled New York steak with local mushrooms and baby potato ragout or sour cherry glazed duck breast with cauliflower and ricotta gnocchi.

Oak Bay

Even though it is the only waterfront restaurant in Oak Bay, the Marina Restaurant takes nothing for granted. Get the best of both worlds by starting with sashimi and a rising sun martini (vodka, vermouth and sake) in the sushi bar and continue in the main dining room with grilled salmon with tomato and tarragon butter and vegetable ragout, or spaghettini tossed with leeks, grape tomatoes, local seafood and a splash of white wine. Visit on Sundays for a truly spectacular brunch buffet.

The Peninsula

Head to the end of Sidney's main drag for a shared platter of smoked fish, house pate, olives and grilled sausage with a glass or two of wine in Haro's Restaurant and Bar. Hungrier? Savour pork and prawn dumplings with watercress and sesame salad and orange ginger chili sauce before linguine and scallops tossed with sweet onion cilantro pesto, green beans and pine nuts, or hearty Bouillabaisse scented with Pernod with crusty bread and a crisp salad.

Though you can dine a la carte at the Deep Cove Chalet, I don't know why you would, with the option of several well-priced set menus including prawn salad, followed by catch of the day before your choice of braised rabbit, roast venision, curried scallops or noisette of lamb. Finish with lemon souffle or Pear Belle Hélène for just over $60.This North Saanich hideaway also boasts a legendary wine cellar and impressive grounds, including a sloping lawn adjacent to the seasonal patio that makes the perfect spot to land your helicopter, should you roll that way — and some of their guests do.

Sooke

You won't get closer to the water than if you dine at Sushi on the Sea, because you will be eating either on the wharf or on an 80-foot trawler. Japanese dishes including sushi hold up well to scrutiny, but don't expect minimalist decor or soothing Koto music. Do expect a unique dining experience. It's a little tricky to find, and it's hard to get a table, since seatings of eight occur only twice nightly on Friday and Saturday (other nights by special arrangement) but if mobility isn't an issue, make the effort. You won't be disappointed.

Working with the hundreds of greens, herbs, flowers and vegetables grown on site in combination with select local seafood and organic meats has helped Sooke Harbour House establish a reputation for a daily menu that matches the spectacular views from the dining room. If you have the kind of palate that allows you to guess what is on your plate with ease, visit here to challenge it with dishes like Chinook salmon glazed with birch syrup, served with wild rice, Indian celery and fuki leaf bundles, wild morels, grilled nodding onions and fiddleheads, sprinkled with wild sorrel and camas flowers.

Take a hike through the spectacular natural trails to the water at Point no Point before visiting the dining room for a satisfying lunch of cold smoked albacore tuna served with potato salad, pickled peppers and fennel or croque monsieur enhanced with caramelized onions and shredded wheat molasses bread. Dinner offers sunsets, terrine of quail, brandied figs and pistachios with raspberries and black currants and Halibut served with tomato confit, basil, preserved lemon mascarpone and Nicoise olive Israeli couscous. Free binoculars all day.

Please note that details were current at the time of writing. Contact the establishment of your choice below to verify menus and hours.

Aura Restaurant, Laurel Point Inn, 680 Montreal St., 250-414-6739

http://www.aurarestaurant.ca

Bengal Lounge, Fairmont Empress Hotel, 721 Government Street, 250 384-8111

http://www.fairmont.com/empress/GuestServices/Restaurants/TheBengalLounge.htm

Deep Cove Chalet, 11190 Chalet Road, 250 656-3541

http://www.deepcovechalet.com/index2.php

Haro's Restaurant and Bar, Sidney Pier Hotel, 9805 Seaport Place, 250 655-9700

http://www.sidneypier.com/dining#haros

Lure Restaurant and Lounge, Delta Victoria Ocean Pointe Resort, 45 Songhees Rd., 250 360-5873

http://www.lurevictoria.com/menus.htm

Marina Restaurant, 1327 Beach Dr., 250 598-8555

http://www.marinarestaurant.com/menus/

Pacific Restaurant, Hotel Grand Pacific, 463 Belleville St., 250-380 4458

http://www.pacificrestaurant.com/kitchen/index.html

Point no Point Resort, 10829 West Coast Rd. 250 646-2020.

http://www.pointnopointresort.com/restaurant.html

Sooke Harbour House, 1528 Whiffen Spit Rd., 250 642-3421

http://www.sookeharbourhouse.com/category/victoria-fine-dining-restaurant

Sushi on the Sea, on the wharf at 6669 Horne Rd., 250 642-6669

www.sushionthesea.com