Dear Eric: We’re having a hard time around town buying decent oysters. Once in a while, we luck into some that are, at best, OK, but this is the exception. The last good ones we had were purchased in Fanny Bay, but we can’t find any outlet for them in Victoria. Any ideas?
Dave
Dear Dave: When Dave says he purchased oysters in Fanny Bay, he is talking about the Fanny Bay Oysters Seafood Shop in Union Bay. It’s the retail outlet for Fanny Bay Oysters, a company that farms oysters just down the road from the store.
That, logically, is a great place to buy fresh and wonderful oysters, but there are places in Victoria where you can get them, as well.
One is Cowichan Bay Seafood, in the Victoria Public Market, 1701 Douglas St. This business, as the name suggests, has another — original — location in Cowichan Bay.
On its website, cowichanbayseafood.com, the company notes it carries a variety of tray (farmed) oysters, such as Kusshi oysters (see oyster descriptions below) and beach oysters. Weather conditions, product availability and the season determine what types of oysters they stock each week.
So, if you are in search of some good oysters, give Cowichan Bay Seafood a call at 778-433-4385 to see what they have. If you need a large amount of oysters for a party, they can also order some in for you. While at Cowichan Bay Seafood, you could also have lunch, as part of the operation also offers tasty seafood meals, such as fish and chips.
Another great place to buy fresh oysters is the Fairfield location of Thrifty Foods, 1590 Fairfield Rd. As with Cowichan Bay Seafood, weather conditions, product availability and the season determine what they stock. They can also order oysters for you and have them ready for pickup, usually within a day or two.
When I was at Fairfield Thrifty Foods last week, they, like Cowichan Bay Seafood, stocked Kusshi oysters, but also had Royal Miyagi, Chefs Creek and Malpeque oysters.
A third place to buy fresh oysters and other fantastic seafood is Finest at Sea Ocean Products, 27 Erie St. A fine-tasting type of oyster they carry is called Sea Angel.
As with Cowichan Bay Seafood, you could also have lunch at Finest at Sea, as they have talented cooks on staff cooking up things such as hearty chowder.
Anyway, Dave, there are certainly some good places to get fresh oysters in Victoria, and after visiting them you’ll be slurping oysters and smiling soon after.
Five Oyster Varieties
Depending on the season, weather and availability, the types of fresh oysters you can buy in Victoria will vary. Below are brief descriptions of five types of oysters I was able to purchase last week. All are great to enjoy raw, but, of course, could also be cooked, if that’s your preference.
Sea Angel: These oysters are farmed off Quadra Island. Descriptions of the taste and texture I found for these delectable oysters include meaty, tender and vegetable taste.
Kusshi: These oysters are farmed in Deep Bay, by the tray-suspension method coupled with a unique tumbling process. That process strengthens their shells, makes them smooth and creates deep cups, making this oyster easier to shuck. Kusshi is the Japanese word for “precious” and that is certainly what these small oysters are. The B.C. Shellfish Growers Association’s oyster guide,
bcoysterguide.ca, says this oyster’s exquisite flavour starts with salty, transitions to sweet and finishes with a delightfully mild, fruity taste.
Chefs Creek: These oysters are named after Chefs Creek, a stream that flows into Baynes Sound off eastern Vancouver Island. These are first raised in floating trays and then are finished on the beach. The taste and texture notes I found for these oysters include creamy, crisp and medium briny, with a touch of a sweet flavour.
Royal Miyagi: These oysters come from B.C.’s Sunshine Coast. They are first raised suspended on lines in the ocean and later moved to the beach, which toughens their shells and firms up their meat. The B.C. Shellfish Growers Association describes these oysters’ taste as having notes of parsley and cucumber and hints of lavender.
Malpeque: This farmed oyster comes from Malpeque Bay, P.E.I. It has a long history of pleasing oyster lovers’ palates. For example, it was judged the world’s tastiest oyster at a Paris exhibition in 1900. The company that sells them, Prince Edward Aqua Farms, describes them as easy to shuck, with meat that has a salty taste and sweet finish.
Mignonette Sauce
This is the classic French-style, vinegar-based sauce to serve with raw oysters. Its tartness works well with the salty richness of the oysters.
Preparation time:Five minutes
Cooking time: None
Makes: About enough sauce for at least two dozen, small, raw oysters
1/2 cup sherry or white or red wine vinegar
2 Tbsp very finely chopped
shallots
• pinch or two dried or fresh chopped tarragon (optional)
• salt and coarsely ground black pepper to taste
Place all ingredients in a small bowl. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve, chilled, with the raw oysters.
How to shuck an oyster
Get out your thin-bladed, narrow-tipped oyster knife .
Scrub oyster well in cold water. Place oyster, cupped-side down, with the narrow end facing you, on a slightly damp kitchen towel.
With your non-shucking hand, protected with another kitchen towel or rubber glove, hold it in place. Insert the point of your oyster knife into the hinge of the shells, gently working the knife into the oyster about 1/4 to 1/2 inch.
Twist the knife to pry the shell open. Slide the knife across the top shell of the oyster and remove and discard it. Slide the knife under the oyster to detach it from the bottom shell.
Remove any shell fragments and the oyster is ready to enjoy.
Eric Akis is the author of The Great Rotisserie Chicken Cookbook (Appetite by Random House). His columns appear in the Life section Wednesday and Sunday.
