Dear Eric: Have you tried clam pizza? Would you have a recipe?
Barb
Dear Barb: The idea to put clams on a pizza is said to have first occurred at Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana in New Haven, Connecticut.
The story goes that when this restaurant began operating in 1925, they served littleneck clams on the half shell at the bar. Those clams eventually ended up on a pizza called “white clam pie,” because it did not have a tomatoey pizza sauce spread on the dough.
Instead, the dough was topped with olive oil, oregano, cheese, garlic and juicy, shucked clams. That pizza was a hit. Eventually, this style of pizza began being served at numerous pizzerias on the East Coast and beyond.
I first tried white clam pie about 10 years ago at Lombardi's Pizza in Manhattan. That establishment's claim to fame, beyond making amazing pizza in a classic coal-fired oven, is that it is believed to be the United States’ first pizzeria, opening for business in 1905.
Lombardi’s makes a variety of tomato-sauce-spread pizzas, but is equally known for its white clam pie. When I dug into a slice, it was loaded with clams and the tastes noted above and came with lemon for squeezing.
My wife was also on that trip. We both enjoyed it, so when we got home, we tried to replicate it. We also tried making other styles of clam-topped pizza.
We made it like they did at Lombardi’s, but found the pizza was a little dry. When checking other clam-pizza recipes after that experience, we noticed that some of them had a cream sauce spread on the dough, so we gave that a whirl.
We tried it, and the cream sauce not only prevented the top of the pizza crust from being dry, it made that pizza richer and absolutely delicious.
Also, instead of putting shucked clams on that pizza, we used cooked clams left on the shell for a nicer presentation.
Barb, you’ll find a recipe for that pizza below. Before you try it, remember that’s it best to buy clams the day you’ll cook them.
However, if need be, they could be stored in the coldest part of your refrigerator for a day or two. Before doing so, remove the clams from their packaging, set in a bowl and loosely cover with a damp cloth. Do not submerge the clams in tap water.
When you’re ready to cook, give the clams a rinse in cold water and drain well. Examine the clams, and if any are not tightly shut, tap the shell.
If the shell does not close, the clam is dead and should not be eaten. When you do cook them, if a clam does not open, it’s another sign that it’s dead and shouldn’t be eaten.
Clam Pizza With Three Cheeses and Basil
B.C. manila clams on the half shell baked on a pizza with a rich cream sauce and three cheeses. The aromatic basil goes on just before serving.
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Cooking time: 12 to 13 minutes, per pizza
Makes: two pizzas
1 1/4 cups lukewarm (not hot) water
2 tsp instant dry yeast
1 tsp granulated sugar
1/2 tsp salt
2 Tbsp olive oil, plus some for the bowl and pan
3 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup white wine
2 large garlic clove, halved and very thinly sliced
40 to 48 fresh manila clams
1/2 tsp dried oregano
1 1/4 cups whipping cream
1/2 tsp coarsely ground black pepper
150 grams mozzarella cheese, grated
150 grams asiago or provolone cheese, grated
1/4 to 1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
20 to 24 whole fresh basil leaves, torn into smaller pieces if large
In a large bowl, or in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, combine the water, yeast, sugar and 2 Tbsp of olive oil.
If using a mixer, add all of the flour and mix on medium speed until the dough is smooth and pulls away from the sides of the bowl.
Mix and knead the dough for another five minutes.
If mixing the dough by hand, slowly add 2 1/2 cups of the flour, working it into the yeast/water mixture with a spoon until the dough loosely clumps together.
Lightly dust a clean work surface with the remaining flour.
Gather the dough, scraping the sides of the bowl if necessary, and set it on the counter.
Dab it lightly in the flour to coat it, then knead for six to eight minutes, until the dough is smooth but still slightly sticky.
Lightly grease a large, deep bowl with olive oil. Place the kneaded dough in the bowl, cover with plastic wrap and allow to rise at warm room temperature until doubled in size, about 60 to 90 minutes.
While the dough rises, rinse clams in cold water, and then drain well.
In a medium pot, bring the wine, garlic and oregano to a simmer. Add the clams, cover, and cook until they just open. Lift clams out of the pot and onto a plate. Cool clams to room temperature.
While the clams cool, simmer the clam-cooking liquid until reduced to about 1/4 cup. Add the cream and pepper, return to a simmer, and simmer one minute. Remove cream mixture from the heat and cool to room temperature.
When the clams are cool, remove the top shell from each clam and discard. Leave the meat-filled half shells on the plate.
Transfer the risen pizza dough to a work surface. (No need to punch it down, as it will gently collapse when you move it.) Cut the dough into two equal pieces.
Place each piece of dough on a lightly oiled, 12-inch non-stick pizza pan. Gently press, push and spread each dough ball until it reaches the edges of the pan. Let the dough rest in the pan a few minutes. If the dough contracts, press on it until it reaches the outer edges again.
Place the oven rack in the lower third of your oven. Preheat the oven to 450 F.
Divide and spread each pizza dough with the cream mixture. Now divide and top with the cheeses and clams, setting them meat-filled-side up.
Bake the pizzas, one at a time, for 12 to 13 minutes, or until the pizza is puffed and the crust is crisp and golden. Top each pizza with some fresh basil, slice and serve.
Eric Akis is the author of The Great Rotisserie Chicken Cookbook (Appetite by Random House). His columns appear in the Life section Wednesday and Sunday.
