If your first glimpse of Bistro Caché in Brentwood Bay reminds you of Piccolo Restaurant, there's a good reason for that. The bones of the room are the same as its predecessor -- in fact, even one of the owners is the same. But when Cheryl hired local chef Matt Thompson (Dock 503 and Brentwood Bay Lodge) he became a business and a life partner.
Though Piccolo was a perfectly pleasant Mediterranean-style venue, the Thompsons have moved toward fine dining with "classically inspired dishes with an emphasis on local ingredients." Statements like this make me a little nervous. Though I am thrilled to see a firm trend embracing the local bounty, let's face it; some of the resulting menus are a little boring.
We thought that we might be in for a better-than-average experience when we saw the apéritif list, which is devoid of palate-destroying cocktails for newbie drinkers. Instead, you might begin with something along the lines of a little Pernod, a slightly adulterated Negroni or a glass of something sparkling. Appropriately, for a few dollars more, you can nibble something with your drink while you ponder your menu choices, including radishes, grilled spot prawns, cucumbers, frites or perhaps a dish of olives.
We began by sharing a spectacular dish built around duck confit. I don't use the word "spectacular" lightly because all too often, people destroy this dish. The real thing is slowly poached in duck fat with a modicum of herbs and seasonings, allowed to congeal for at least a day and if served warm, reheated until crisp. This was the best rendition I have had in an Island restaurant outside of a French establishment, where the very idea of the roasted, deep fried and yes, even microwaved imitations I have encountered would make any decent chef weep.
A generous leg and thigh, it was crisp, tender, sprinkled with a little sea salt and served with a warm mélange of dandelion greens, lentils, potatoes and lardons and a little cherry gastrique. We ate in near silence. Other options in the appetizer section currently include onion soup finished with Emmental and cognac, crepes oozing with ham, chanterelle mushrooms and sauce Mornay, and mussels served in a steaming curried broth with grilled bread.
The good people of Brentwood Bay were likely reluctant to give up the pizza and pasta that Piccolo supplied. Though the owners have kept these on the menu, both are a long way from the Greek pizzas or chicken with Alfredo sauce of yesteryear. Now you will find simpler pizzas and half a dozen pasta options such as penne with tomato sauce spiked with spicy pork sausage, onions and peppers or more intriguingly, chicken with mushrooms, cream, demi glace and tarragon.
Don never orders pasta in a restaurant, but nearly chose wild mushroom ravioli stuffed with chevre, truffle oil and tomato broth. I was close to ordering tagliatelle with what sounded like authentic Bolognese sauce, but we decided to save these for a future visit. Pastas are also available on the brief but interesting lunch menu, which includes a daily soup and sandwich along with croque madame ou monsieur.
Entrées lived up to expectations created by the confit. My steak frites was the very combination of perfectly aged, medium rare meat served with crisp on the outside but fluffy on the inside potatoes that makes this simple pairing a classic.
Don's choice, roast lamb with roast potatoes, spicy eggplant and yogurt infused with fresh peaches and cilantro was both refreshingly different and perfectly executed.
Afterward, we lingered as we had imbibed a bottle of wine, chosen from a decent list that like the menu, offers plenty of affordable choices. This was easy to do with good coffee, a shared chocolate mousse and witty repartee provided by our waiter. Service was charming, informed and at times, hilarious. Bistro Caché is the full package. We can't wait to go back.
RATINGS
Rating 1 Below bad
Rating 2 Below average
Rating 3 Average
Rating 4 Above average
Rating 5 Excellent
