Back in the late '90s I spent several months working in Liège, Belgium, a grubby little steel town that is to Europe what Hamilton is to southern Ontario. Still, Liège was a good base from which to immerse myself in centuries of Belgian history, art, culture and, it goes without saying, beer.
Much of my misspent youth was spent quaffing generic beer from the likes of Labatt and Molson - consistent fare that was easy to drink and didn't challenge me in any way. As such, I wasn't sure at first what to make of the diverse range of beers for which Belgium is so famous.
With thousands of unique offerings to choose from, I first groped for something familiar in the way of Stella Artois.
To my chagrin, I discovered that what passes for exotic lager in Canada is actually considered cheap and common by Belgian standards. Progressing from Stella, I soon discovered a variety of impressive beers that tasted like nothing I had guzzled during university. Each day brought new experiences and discoveries of beer types; from abbey and trappist beers, to dubbel, tripel and lambic beers, it was the sudsy equivalent of discovering King Solomon's Mine.
Returning to Canada, I was disappointed to find very few of my Belgian favourites available in government liquour stores - a trend that continues to this day. Fortunately, the rise of independent retailers has resulted in increased Belgian beer selection. Better still, a number of West Coast craft brewers have begun introducing Belgianstyle beers to market that combine the best of the Old World with the New. In particular, saison beers are enjoying increasing popularity in the Pacific Northwest.
Saisons, as the French name suggests, were originally simple seasonal beers brewed by farmhouses in Wallonia, the French-speaking south of Belgium.
Relatively low in alcohol (three to four per cent alcohol by volume), saisons were consumed as light refreshment by farm workers during the fall harvest. Of course, the peasant demographic isn't quite what it was, so modern saisons are generally higher in alcohol (five to eight per cent) and come in a variety of complex styles. They also have broad appeal that goes beyond Belgium's borders.
The following are four Pacific Northwest saisons with a devoted following:
Farmhand Ale - Driftwood Brewery, Victoria; 650 mL, 5.5 per cent alcohol by volume (ABV), $6
Amber in the glass with a creamy white head, Farmhand Ale has nice aromas of hops and black pepper that are revealed on the palate with a bit of grassiness and sweet fruitiness. Regarded by many as one of Driftwood's best products, it pairs wonderfully with walnuts, pecans and soft ripened cheeses, as well as beef, venison and mussels.
Deckhand - Lighthouse Brewing Company, Victoria; 650 mL, 8.0 ABV, $7
Unfiltered for greater flavour, Deckhand is opaque in the glass with complex aromas, ranging from citrus, honey and floral, to dried apricot, honeysuckle and orange blossom. On the palate it is sweet and fruity, with a distinct tang and a hint of tart hops. Try it with good-quality sausage or charcuterie.
FYI: The last time I wrote about this wonderful product I was flooded with indignant emails from artloving beer drinkers who were outraged that I might dare to criticize the lowbrow artwork on the label.
Well, I remain unrepentant: This is still a fantastic saison that comes in a puerile package.
Seven - Upright Brewing Co., Portland, Oregon; 750 mL, 8.0 per cent ABV, $12
Very much a modern saison, Seven relies more on jazzy hops and fresh tropical fruit influences than yeast esters to impart aromas and flavours. Cloudy orange in the glass, it noses notes of fresh-cut grass and grapefruit as well as a hint of pepper. Fruit forward, grassy and honeyed on the mouth, it is well balanced with hops that leave a dry and slightly bitter aftertaste. A good match for Thai food.
Le Merle - North Coast Brewing Co., Fort Bragg, California; 750 mL, 7.9 per cent ABV, $10
Hazy and brassy in the glass, Le Merle pours a light head that quickly dissipates. On the nose it has a hint of funky Belgian yeast, combined with pronounced aromas of honey, citrus and spice. A sharp tang and effervescence on the palate reveals lots of orange zest and bitter hop that leave a pleasant acidic finish. Try pairing it with spicy Indian dishes, such as tandoori prawns or chicken tikka masala.
