Dear Eric: I saw white asparagus for sale and wondered how it differed from green asparagus. Can you provide some information?
William
Dear William: White asparagus is grown covered with soil or other material. The restriction of sunlight retards the development of chlorophyll and prevents it from turning green.
Because white asparagus grows underground, its flesh develops a sweeter, milder flavour, while its skin is thicker. Growing and harvesting is more labour-intensive for white asparagus than green, and that’s reflected in its higher price.
While fresh green asparagus can be steamed or boiled until tender in just two to three minutes, white asparagus requires a different preparation. After cutting off the lower end of the stem, the spear, except for the tip, is usually peeled of its somewhat bitter-tasting skin.
White asparagus can be steamed, simmered or braised, but its root-like characteristics require a longer cooking time to make it tender. That could be eight to 20 minutes or more, depending on thickness and style of preparation.
In today’s recipe, I braised the asparagus in stock with tarragon and garlic. That vegetable dish made a nice accompaniment for seared salmon. Add some boiled mini potatoes and a glass of white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc, and you’ll have a fine dinner for two.
Seared Salmon on Tarragon Garlic Braised White Asparagus
This dish sees quick-cooking salmon set on decadent white asparagus.
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: About 12 minutes
Makes: 2 servings
1 cup chicken or vegetable stock
1/4 tsp dried tarragon
1 small garlic clove, minced
8 to 10 white asparagus spears
1 1/2 Tbsp olive oil
2 (5- to 6-oz.) salmon fillets
• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 tsp chopped fresh parsley or snipped chives (optional)
Combine the stock, tarragon and garlic in 9-inch skillet. Trim about an inch off the bottom end of each asparagus spear. Set one spear on a work surface. Using a sharp swivel-blade vegetable peeler, starting about 1 1/2 inches from the tip of the spear, carefully peel off the skin. (Be careful when doing this. The spear can be brittle and might snap in the middle.) Place the peeled spear in the skillet. Peel remaining asparagus spears in this manner, setting them in a single layer in the skillet as you go along.
Set the skillet over medium to medium-high heat and bring stock to a gentle simmer. Adjust heat to maintain that gentle simmer. Cover and cook until asparagus spears are quite tender, about 10 minutes. During cooking, roll the asparagus in the pan from time to time so it cooks evenly.
While the asparagus cooks, season salmon with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a second, preferably non-stick, skillet set over medium-high. When hot, add the salmon and cook three to four minutes per side, or until nicely coloured on the outside and just cooked in the middle.
Divide and arrange asparagus on two plates. Set a salmon fillet on the asparagus on each plate. Spoon some of the asparagus cooking liquid over the salmon, sprinkle with parsley or chives, if desired, and serve.
Eric Akis is the author of the hardcover book Everyone Can Cook Everything. His columns appear in the Life section Wednesday and Sunday. Submit questions by email or write: Ask Eric, Times Colonist, 2621 Douglas Street, Victoria, B.C., V8T 4M2.
