They came wearing white kilts, top hats, Nehru jackets, Venetian masks, low-cut minidresses and wedding gowns, ready to party with style at a posh pop-up picnic.
The fourth annual Le Dîner en Blanc was underway outside Delta Victoria Ocean Pointe, the secret harbourside location that wasn’t revealed until moments before 1,700 diners would cross the Johnson Street Bridge to get there.
While “whiteout” usually described severe wintry conditions in other Canadian cities, it applied to Victoria with a twist Thursday night during this epicurean phenomenon.
Even the venue was dressed for the occasion, with white stars dangling from trees, huge white balloons framing a grassy pathway, white leather couches on the lawn and a giant, twinkling white LOVE sign.
You couldn’t blame kayakers and Victoria Harbour Ferry passengers for doing double-takes this windy evening as a sea of foodies and fashionistas waved white napkins while dining al fresco.
The upscale event, previously held at Fisherman’s Wharf, Ship Point and St. Ann’s Academy, was inspired by the 1988 original launched in Paris. Like others held each year in 25 countries, participants must abide by rules set by Montreal-based Dîner en Blanc International. They distinguish a commercial enterprise some critics complain is too precious and exclusive.
Conditions include dressing entirely in white, bringing and setting up your own portable white table, chairs, tablecloth, picnic basket and food, with Dîner en Blanc food and wine also available for purchase.
News spreads through word of mouth, with guests given the opportunity to invite guests for the following year’s event.
It wasn’t as pretentious as expected — one diner even brought her picnic in a white laundry basket — and there was plenty of diverting eye candy.
Humour was also abundant, including quips about whether photographers could set their “white balance,” paranoia about red-wine stains and “just look for the guy dressed in white” wisecracks.
“We’re a foursome. It’s like a golf game today,” said Darren Cole, his white sunglasses shielding him from sunshine that broke through cloud cover.
“We have a beautiful city with great people and what better way to celebrate. How often can you do this?”
Table-mate Leah Merceronni designed the white wedding dress she wore, as well as her faux-fur white headpiece and matching purse.
“I want to stand out,” she said while the Dixie Dreamboat played.
Victoria organizing committee chair Aidan Henry said the event’s unique appeal accounts for its huge turnout.
“It’s a whole bunch of little parties going on within one big party,” he said. “Once a year, it gives people a chance to come out of their shell.”
While keeping its location secret can be challenging in the social media age, Henry said they’ve only had one issue. Someone posted last year’s location at noon but took it down when asked.
“It’s like magic,” he said. “You just don’t ask how the trick is done.”
Chef Dan Hayes, the London Chef owner who provided three catered gourmet food options in white picnic boxes, didn’t have to dress up.
“I sleep, eat, breathe and do everything else wearing this from sometimes 5 in the morning to midnight,” smiled Hayes, wearing his white chef’s outfit.
“We don’t know where the event is [beforehand] so that’s a slight spanner in the works,” he said. “We’re taking a picnic to the next level. Of course in France they do this so well, don’t they?”
Sporting a white dinner jacket, Victoria actor Jeffrey Stephen said it was “the impulsiveness of it” that attracted him.
“Onlookers will see a green pasture and, 10 minutes later, the whole thing is filled with a five-star restaurant.”
Al Hasham, the Greater Victoria Chamber of Commerce chairman whose company Maximum Express handles the event’s liquor distribution, lauded its economic benefits.
“Friends going with me were at the Bay Centre buying white umbrellas in case it rained,” he said.
