QUESTION: I want your opinion on whether to buy an extended warranty on our 2012 Acura TSX. We just bought the car and the salesman told me, "If you plan to keep this car more than five years, you should buy the extended warranty." The cost to extend the coverage to 160,000 kilometres or 2020 is $1,950. He claims this car has so many computers in it there are bound to be problems sooner or later and computer problems in these cars are expensive to repair, easily exceeding $1,000 a shot. What do you think? Is he just trying to sell me something I don't need, or should I splurge and pay the extra two grand?
A.M.
ANSWER: My perspective on extended warranties or service contracts, as they are often called, has evolved quite a bit in the nearly 30 years I've done this column. In fact, my position is exactly the opposite of what it was in the '80s. With the massive costs of purchasing, operating and repairing modern automobiles, I think extended warranty/service contracts are almost a no-brainer in many cases.
There are factors in the decision, however. First, are you going to keep the vehicle the approximate term and mileage of the contract? And is there a deductible due at the time of service? Zero deductible is very attractive, while $100 deductible every time you take the car in under this warranty/contract can add considerably to the total cost.
Be aware of typical exclusions, such as brake friction material, hoses, drive belts, etc., which are normal wear-and-tear items. But most of these warranties also exclude shock absorbers, brake rotors or drums, glass, trim, lights and other potentially expensive parts. For example, worn struts or shocks or an $800 composite headlamp assembly that has become sand-blasted, clouded or cracked are likely not covered.
In addition, make sure any extended warranty or service contract dovetails with the original manufacturer's warranty - effectively picking up coverage when and where the original warranty expires.
Also, unless the extended warranty is offered by the auto manufacturer, it is probably a service contract offered by a commercial company. Thus, make sure it is accepted by dealerships and service agencies who might service your vehicle. Many quality companies offer these contracts, but check their record with the dealer and with the Better Business Bureau, as well as online. And if it is a contract offered by a commercial company, you may be able to shop the price at other dealerships - at least this could give you some negotiating power in the deal.
Are these warranties/contracts worth it? If they provide full coverage on your vehicle for the time and mileage you'll drive it, in my opinion, yes. Besides the peace of mind, $2,000 only covers a couple of significant repairs.
Q: I have a 1998 Toyota Tacoma with a manual transmission. Recently, the truck's master cylinder was replaced because of extreme difficulty while downshifting. With the new master cylinder, the truck shifted fine for a short period but is now acting up again. The truck has become a hazard because it lunges forward when I start it in gear with the clutch pedal firmly pressed to the floor. I've tried shifting into gear after starting up in neutral but this is also difficult.
L.J.
A: The clutch is not fully disengaging when you depress the clutch pedal to the floor. Does pumping the pedal several times before attempting to shift into gear help? If so, bleeding the clutch system to expel any trapped air may help.
With the age of the truck, it may have been wise to replace the clutch slave cylinder in addition to the master cylinder. It may be suffering the same corrosion, contamination and wear that eventually caused the master cylinder to fail.
Q: It's been awhile since you helped me with my Toyota 4x4 truck starter. All has been going well with the new starter and the rest of the truck. A new problem just began this week. I went to start my truck, and the clutch pedal nearly went to the floor before I felt any resistance. I could get the truck into gear, both forward and reverse, and drive it without trouble or noise; it just felt strange to suddenly have so much free play in the clutch pedal before engaging each time.
The week before, the clutch pedal felt normal and shifting was not a problem - no grinding or difficulty getting it into gear. The pedal free play was normal too. Then the sudden change in the pedal after not driving it for a week. So I checked the clutch cylinder fluid reservoir, and it was full. There are no leaks inside or outside the cylinder. I checked under the truck, and the slave cylinder looks dry. The line looks dry too.
J.K.
A: Your truck uses a hydraulic process to connect clutch-pedal motion to the clutch mechanism within the transmission bell housing. As the pedal is depressed, a pushrod applies force to the clutch master cylinder, pushing a piston about one inch. Hydraulic force is applied, via fluid through a steel or plastic line, to the slave cylinder, which is bolted to the bell housing. The slave cylinder piston moves similarly, and a second pushrod applies force to the clutch fork. This process is infinitely smoother and usually less trouble than the cable or lever mechanisms used in the past.
Since your clutch releases OK, even with lots of pedal free play, and doesn't slip, it should be fine. A worn-out clutch typically releases (and may slip) near the top of pedal travel, or in the case of a warped disc or failed pressure plate, may not release completely, even when depressed fully, causing gear clash.
Your symptoms sure seem to point to a hydraulic issue: I'm thinking a layer of sludge in the bottom of the fluid reservoir may be preventing the master cylinder from receiving a fresh gulp of fluid, or the master cylinder may have begun to leak internally, back to the reservoir.
Does pedal free play decrease if you pump it repeatedly? This would further verify the fault as being hydraulic in nature. Did you look for leakage inside the truck, above and in front of the pedal? Many times a faulty clutch master cylinder will leak inside the truck.
I'd try swabbing out the bottom of the reservoir and refilling fluid by bleeding the system. Open the bleeder at the slave cylinder as a helper depresses the pedal, then close it prior to each pedal release. If this fixes it, great. If not, a faulty clutch master cylinder would be my guess.
