My wife called recently and asked if I would be interested in a used, mint-condition, vintage milkshake mixer she saw for sale at a thrift shop. I said yes because, coincidentally, I was planning to write a column on milkshakes and it could come in handy.
When I saw that old Hamilton Beach-brand mixer, it took me back to my childhood. It reminded me of the irresistible malted milkshakes they used make in that style of mixer, albeit a larger one, at the Woolco department store lunch counter in Moose Jaw, where I lived as a kid.
I couldn’t recall the last time I had a malted milkshake and instantly developed a craving. Before trying to mix one up in my new old mixer, I decided to learn more about the history of milkshakes and discovered the first ones were actually spiked with booze.
According to Stuart Berg Flexner’s book Listening to America, the term milkshake first appeared in the late 1880s. Back then, though, it usually meant an eggnog-type drink made with a shaken mixture of milk, ice, sugar, eggs and whiskey. The drink was a treat, but also considered a healthful tonic, often served at a pharmacy.
The Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink agrees those drinks might have contained whiskey, but by the early 1900s they were wholesome, alcohol-free drinks made with chocolate, strawberry or vanilla syrups.
Back then, malted-milk powder, invented in 1887 by William Horlick, was also considered a healthy substance. It was made from dried milk, malted barley and wheat flour and, when liquefied, was first promoted as a nutritious drink for children and the infirm.
Flexner says that since malted milk was also considered a tonic, the malted milkshake was a logical next step, and in the early 1900s, people were also asking for it, too, often with ice cream.
That drink, and other styles of milkshakes made with ice cream, became so popular that by the late 1930s, stand-alone malt shops serving them opened up and became hangouts for the younger set.
If you search for modern recipes for malted milkshakes, you still find those using malted-milk powder, but others use Ovaltine, a nutrient-rich malt-flavoured drink mix.
I successfully used the latter in today’s recipe because I could not find malted-milk powder for sale in Victoria, although I could have ordered it online from Amazon.
Today’s two other sweet milkshake recipes, one flavoured with berries, the other with tropical fruit, were made in a blender. That’s because my new old mixer was not up to the more rigorous task of blending the pieces of fruit used to make those shakes.
Malted Milkshakes
This version of a malted milkshake is flavoured with Ovaltine, a brand of flavouring rich with malt extract and sold at most supermarkets.
Preparation: A few minutes
Cooking time: None
Makes: two servings
1/2 cup milk, plus more as needed
1/3 cup Ovaltine classic
1 cup chocolate ice cream
1 cup vanilla ice cream
• malted milk balls, coarsely chopped, to taste (optional, see Note)
Place milk and Ovaltine in a drink mixer, blender, food processor or cup that came with your immersion blender and mix to combine. And ice creams and blend until smooth. Blend in a bit more milk if you find the mixture too thick. Divide mixture between two chilled glasses. Top with chopped malted milk balls, if desired, and enjoy.
Note: Chocolate-coated malted-milk balls are sold in bulk or in bags at most supermarkets. I used Maltesers brand.
Mango Shakes with Pineapple and Coconut
These tropical-tasting shakes will require one ripe medium-to-large mango. Reserve a few cubes for garnish, if desired.
Preparation: A few minutes
Cooking time: None
Makes: About 3 1/2 cups; three to four servings
1/3 cup unsweetened pineapple juice
1 cup peeled, cubed fresh mango
1/3 cup canned coconut milk (see Note)
2 1/4 cups vanilla ice cream
• cubes of fresh mango and mint sprigs, for garnish (optional)
Place juice, 1 cup cubed mango and coconut milk in a blender, food processor or in the cup of your immersion blender. Pulse until mango is puréed. Add the ice cream and blend until well combined.
Pour into chilled glasses. Garnish the top of each drink with a few cubes of mango and a mint sprig.
Note: The leftover coconut milk can be frozen for another use.
Summer Berry Vanilla Milkshakes
B.C.-grown berries are now in season and you can use a variety of them to flavour this icy cold drink and summer treat. You make them by sliding whole berries onto a small skewer.
Preparation: A few minutes
Cooking time: None
Makes: three (about 1 cup) servings
1/2 cup milk
1 3/4 cups mixed fresh berries, such as sliced strawberries, and whole blueberries, raspberries and blackberries
2 cups good-quality vanilla ice cream
• mint sprigs and small skewers of assorted berries, for garnish (optional)
Place milk and berries in a blender, food processor or cup of your immersion blender. Pulse until berries are puréed.
Add the ice cream and blend until well combined. Add more milk if you like a thinner shake. Pour into chilled glasses.
If desired, garnish each drink with a mint sprig and skewer of berries.
Eric Akis is the author of eight cookbooks. His columns appear in the Life section Wednesday and Sunday.
