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Eric Akis: The sweet taste of local corn

Local corn, shucked, cooked, plated and slathered with butter is a classic, simple and splendid summer dish.
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Savoury corn fritters are served as an appetizer, with sour cream and pico de gallo. ERIC AKIS

Local corn, shucked, cooked, plated and slathered with butter is a classic, simple and splendid summer dish. But on the occasions you can sway yourself from having it, and instead decide to cut the kernels off the cob, you learn realize it’s an ingredient that can shine in myriad other dishes.

Just to give a short list, I’ve used those summer-fresh, corn kernels in relishes, salads, soups, cornbread and, as you see can in today’s recipe, fritters.

To make those fritters, fresh corn kernels and thinly sliced green onions are mixed into a thick batter spiked with tangy buttermilk and a mix of spices. Portions of the batter, formed into small pancakes, are then shallow-fried in hot oil.

When cooked, the fritters are tender, savoury, golden on the outside, moist in the middle and rich with the sweet taste of corn. You could serve the fritters as is, as a side dish for such things as barbecued ribs or chicken, grilled salmon, baked ham and chili. Or, for breakfast, make them a little larger and set poached eggs on top, perhaps topped with chipotle flavoured hollandaise.

But I decided to serve the corn fritters as an appetizer, where after cooking them and arranging them on a platter, you top each one with sour cream and pico de gallo, fresh tomato salsa.

The recipe makes about 20 fritters. If that’s too many for you, any fritters you don’t eat could be wrapped up and frozen, to thaw, warm and enjoy at another time.

As noted in past recipes using fresh corn kernels, to cut the kernels off a cob, after shucking and thoroughly removing the silk from the corn, grab onto its stem end. Now set the tip of the cob in the centre of a wide, shallow bowl, and use a sharp paring knife to cut and slide the kernels off the cob and into the bowl. When cutting off the kernels, work as close to the cob as you can, but not so close that you’re taking a lot of the fibrous cob along for the ride.

Summer Corn Fritters with Pico de Gallo and Sour Cream

Savoury pancake-like fritters, rich with the taste of sweet summer corn are served as an appetizer, topped with tangy sour cream and fresh tomato salsa.

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: three to four minutes, per batch

Makes: about 20 fritters

1 large egg

1/2 cup buttermilk

3/4 cup all-purpose flour

2 tsp baking powder

1/2 tsp salt

1/8 tsp cayenne pepper

1/8 tsp smoked paprika

1/8 tsp garlic powder

1 1/2 cups raw, fresh corn kernels (see Note)

1/2 cup thinly sliced green onions

• vegetable oil, for frying

• sour cream, to taste

• pico de gallo, to taste (see recipe below)

• small cilantro sprigs, for garnish (optional)

Beat egg in a medium bowl. Whisk in buttermilk.

In a second bowl, add the flour, baking powder, salt, cayenne, paprika and garlic powder and whisk to combine. Add the corn kernels and green onions and, with a spoon, stir to coat them with the flour mixture. Add the flour mixture to the egg/buttermilk mixture and mix to create a thick batter.

Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Preheat oven to 200 F. Pour 1/8-inch of vegetable oil on a non-stick griddle or into a large skillet set to, or over, medium, medium-high heat. Working in batches, carefully set heaping tablespoonfuls of the batter on the griddle, or in the skillet, leaving a two-inch space between each fritter. Use a small spoon to spread each fritter into a two-inch or so round.

Fry the fritters until rich golden on the bottom, about two minutes. Flip fritters over and cook one to two minutes on the other side. Set cooked fritters on the baking sheet. Fry and turn the remaining batter into corn fritters as you did the first batch and set them on the baking sheet (see Eric’s options).

Set the baking sheet of fritters in the oven to keep them warm while you get out a large platter and the toppings.

To serve, set the warm fritters on a large platter. Top each one with a small spoon of sour cream and some pico di gallo. Garnish each fritter with a small cilantro sprig, if using, and serve.

Note: Two medium cobs of corn should yield the amount of kernels needed here.

Eric’s options: You can fry the fritters many hours before needed. Once they’ve cooled to room temperature on the baking sheet, cover and refrigerate until needed. To warm them, uncover and set in 300 F oven about 12 minutes. Now set fritters on a platter and top as directed in the recipe.

Pico de Gallo

This salsa is at its best in summer when you can make with ripe, ultra flavourful, local tomatoes. Any leftover pico de gallo could be scooped up and enjoyed with tortilla chips.

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: None

Makes: About 1 3/4 cups

1 1/2 cups diced ripe red tomato (see Note)

1/4 cup finely diced white onion

1/4 cup chopped cilantro

1 to 2 tsp finely chopped jalapeno pepper

1 Tbsp + 1 1/2 tsp lime juice

1/4 tsp ground cumin

• salt to taste

Combine ingredients in a bowl. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. Pico de gallo can be made a few hours before needed.

Note: One very large tomato, or two medium ones, should the amount of diced tomato needed here. Diced in this recipes means to cut into small 1/4-inch small cubes.

eakis@timescolonist.com

Eric Akis is the author of eight cookbooks. His columns appear in the Life section Wednesday and Sunday.