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Eric Akis: Slow down! Making risotto isn’t a race

Risotto is one of those marvellous, almost magical things.

Risotto is one of those marvellous, almost magical things. It starts by taking not all that interesting-, not to mention dry-, looking rice and simmering and stirring it with patience until violà, it’s transformed into something creamy, comforting and toothsome. Of course, it might not be any of those things if you don’t prepare it correctly.

Here are some tips:

 

About the rice

The rice for risotto are stubby, short- or medium-grain varieties that have a high starch content and absorb less liquid during cooking. Those qualities enable the rice to maintain a nice texture when completely cooked and cause an almost creamy sauce to form around the grains. You’ll find rice for risotto for sale at many supermarkets and Italian or Mediterranean delis. Some companies simply label it “risotto rice” or “Italian rice.” At some locations, you’ll also find specific varieties of rice perfect for risotto, such as arborio, carnaroli or vialone nano.

 

Don’t wash the rice

For some rice recipes, you are asked to wash and drain the rice before cooking. Don’t do that with risotto rice or you will remove some of the starchy coating that helps thicken the cooking liquid and gives the rice its desired creamy texture.

 

Do toast the rice

Before you add the cooking liquid, many recipes for risotto ask you to cook the rice in the pot until aromatic and lightly toasted. This process enhances its flavour and helps to prevent the individual grains of rice from fusing together and becoming less distinct.

 

About the cooking stock

Stock is the liquid most often used to simmer and cook the rice. It could be seafood, vegetable, chicken, beef or another type, depending on what style of risotto you’re making. Choose or make a stock that has fine flavour. If the one you use is bland, your risotto will inherit that quality. If using a store-bought stock, avoid ones that are overly salty. If it is, it will become even more so as it simmers, reduces and concentrates in the risotto cooking pot.

 

Warm the stock and add it slowly

Always warm the stock before adding it to the risotto as that will help maintain a consistent cooking temperature. Add the stock slowly to the risotto, about half to one cup at a time, simmering it until almost fully absorbed by the rice before you make the next addition. If you add too much at once, it may cause the rice to overcook before it reduces to the point where the risotto is no longer soupy.

Also, adding the stock in smaller increments and stirring constantly also helps give it that desired creamy texture when cooked.

 

Be patient and taste as you go

It can take about 30 minutes to make risotto as described above, so be patient and maybe sip a glass of wine as you stir and slowly simmer the rice to a happy conclusion. Start sampling small amounts of the rice after about 15 to 20 minutes of cooking. When cooked, the rice will be al dente; tender but still nicely textured and holding its shape. When cooked, the risotto should be a creamy mass with enough body to stand up slightly when spooned into the serving dish.

 

Risotto with Chanterelle Mushrooms, Gorgonzola and Walnuts

Divinely rich risotto topped with in-season wild mushrooms, tangy cheese and toasted nuts. You could serve this as a main course. You could also spoon up smaller servings of it and serve it as a side dish for a grilled or seared tender beef steak, such as tenderloin or rib eye.

 

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Cooking time: About 40 minutes

Makes: Four main-course servings; six-to-eight side-dish servings

 

6 cups chicken or vegetable stock

3 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus some for drizzling

1 medium onion, finely diced

1 large garlic clove, minced

1 1Ú2 cups risotto rice

1Ú2 cup white wine

1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 Tbsp butter

1 lb fresh chanterelle mushrooms, sliced (see Note 1)

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 Tbsp chopped Italian parsley

1Ú2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese (not the dried, powdered type), plus some for sprinkling

100 grams Gorgonzola or other rich blue cheese, pulled into small nuggets

1/2 cup walnut halves, lightly toasted (see Note 2)

Place the stock in a pot and bring to a simmer over medium heat. When there, turn the heat under the stock to low.

Heat the 3 Tbsp of oil in another pot set over medium to medium-high heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook and stir until tender, about five minutes. Add the rice and cook, stirring, for three to four minutes, until the rice has a slightly nutty, toasted aroma.

Pour in the wine, adjust the heat so that it very gently simmers, and cook until the wine is almost fully absorbed by the rice. Add 1 cup of the stock, bring it to a simmer and cook until it is almost fully absorbed by the rice. Add the remaining stock 1Ú2 cup at a time, cooking and stirring until the liquid is almost absorbed each time before making the next addition. (You may not need all the stock to cook the rice.)

When the rice is halfway cooked, heat the 1 Tbsp oil and 1 Tbsp butter in a large skillet over medium to medium-high heat. When the butter is melted, add the mushrooms and cook until they are tender and the moisture seeping from them has evaporated. Season the mushrooms with salt and pepper and keep warm on low heat.

When the rice is tender and creamy, remove it from the heat and stir in the Parmesan cheese and parsley, reserving some of the latter to sprinkle on the servings of the risotto. Taste the risotto and adjust the seasoning, if necessary. Cover the risotto while you warm up your serving bowls or plates.

To serve, divide the risotto between the warm serving bowls or plates. Divide and top each serving with mushrooms, Gorgonzola cheese and walnuts. Sprinkle each serving with a little chopped parsley and grated Parmesan cheese. Drizzle each serving with a tiny bit of extra virgin olive oil and enjoy.

 

Note 1: Chanterelle mushrooms are available at some supermarkets, specialty food stores and farm markets. If you can’t find them, try a one-pound mix of assorted, sliced mushrooms, such as oyster, brown and shiitake.

Note 2: To toast walnuts, place them in a skillet and set over medium heat. Cook and stir until lightly toasted and aromatic, about four to five minutes.

 

Eric Akis is the author of the hardcover book Everyone Can Cook Everything. His columns appear in the Life section Wednesday and Sunday.