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Bright, patterned socks and pocket squares add bold, personal touch to men's wardrobes

Men's clothes may be neutral, understated, even conservative, but the adventurous male spirit is peering out of the wardrobe in socks and pocket hankies.

Men's clothes may be neutral, understated, even conservative, but the adventurous male spirit is peering out of the wardrobe in socks and pocket hankies.

Splashy colours, from day-glow greens and yellows to bright, busy patterns, are making stands at the ankle - in socks, to be precise.

And at the breast pocket, patterned handkerchiefs, or pocket squares, are brightening the classic blacks, whites, tans, greys and understated neutral tones of the jackets and suits.

Men's shirts are showing rich solid colours, such as burgundy and French blue, and even showing up with checks.

But for that splash of loud, over-the-top, self-confident fun - the kind that shouts, "Look at me, dammit!" - go to the socks and pocket squares.

Patrick Tier, owner of Citizen Clothing, 2541 Este-van Ave., said men are dressing better than ever, even when they are dressing casually. So jackets, well-made shoes and stylish jeans are all part of a man's wardrobe, even when going casual.

Tier said there is also a move to accessorize these looks with such things as pins and bracelets. But for sheer boldness, it's socks and pocket-square handkerchiefs.

"Men still want to show some personality and the socks and the pocket squares are a really easy way to do it," he said.

"These things let you show some individuality, some character, without having to spend $600 on a new coat."

Michael Pope, fashion instructor at Kwantlen Polytechnic University in Richmond, said he sees the bright socks and hankies as a result of, or follow-up to, other trends that have been around for the past several years.

Pope mentioned American designer Thom Browne as a leader in a look that includes narrow, tight pants, often rolled up to expose the ankles.

"So when you are exposing the ankles, the next most obvious trend is to emphasize that and create some visual interest in the area being exposed," Pope said. "Hence, the brightly coloured socks and patterned socks."

Likewise, the pocket handkerchiefs or pocket squares Pope sees as a followup to another trend, led by the television series Mad Men. The show follows a group of advertising men and women in the 1960s.

As a result, men's clothes are showing a '60s retro emphasis on clean, narrow, shapes.

"There are no super-exaggerated shapes," Pope said. "And when the clothes and styles go through what is a more streamlined look, men will tend to accessorize in ways that are a little more extreme. It's pretty safe accessories, since men have more rigid rules than women do.

"So we tend to see things like the coloured socks and pocket handkerchiefs, bowties and neckties as the areas where men feel they can approach dressing with a certain amount of individuality."

Iain Russell, fashion design instructor at Pacific Design Academy and a sales representative at Outlooks for Men, 534 Yates St., calls the look he is now seeing "West Coast Modernism," after the architectural style.

It's clothing that is not as buttoned-down and neatly fitted as New York and Toronto. Neither is it as edgy as Paris or London.

It's about clean lines, muted colours and a style that is mostly casual.

Russell gives a lot of the credit to the men of the high-tech industry. These men, who spend most days at a computer, are so casual they can often get away with jeans and T-shirts.

But they are showing a little more care and attention, with well-fitted jeans, tailored khaki pants and soft jackets. They are dressing for comfort, but they can still attend a business meeting when called upon.

"They will still go out of their comfort zone a little bit [with the bright socks and accessories]," Russell said. "At the same time, when they meet clients they know they have be dressed up a little bit."

At the Four Horsemen Shop, 635 Johnson St., manager Guy Ferguson said he sees socks and the pocket squares making a big splash with office-bound working men.

These items make sense when you consider clothing a type of investment, Ferguson said. Basic items, such as jackets and pants, can remain on the conservative side. But a man can revamp his look and make himself appear completely different and on-trend with a few small items, such socks or pocket hankies.

"They are cheap, noncommittal and it's not like you are buying a new jacket," Ferguson said. "It's not a big deal. It can be a $10 purchase."

rwatts@timescolonist.com