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City gives nod to new brewpub

Moon Under Water in Rock Bay neighbourhood to open by Oct. 1

Victoria, home of the first licensed brewpub in the country, is now home to the latest as the Moon Under Water brewpub was brought to life after the City of Victoria approved its rezoning application.

The latest entrant in the brewpub game is tucked away on Bay Street, a short distance from Spinnakers, which showed everyone the way in 1984.

"It's a bit of a relief," said owner Bonnie Bradley during a tour of the 5,000 square foot space.

Bradley and husband Don had already sunk a lot of time, energy and money into the venture in anticipation of getting the approval.

With that weight now off their shoulders, the pair, who founded Bowen Island Brewery in 1994 and sold in 1998, are hard at work to transform what was a Direct Buy outlet at 305-B Bay St. into an idyllic pub experience.

And idyllic is key to this pub.

Named after a George Orwell essay which laid out the requirements for the writer's ideal public house, the Bradleys' new venture aims to pull together and wrap into one space the great experiences they've had at English-styled pubs.

"We want it to be warm, comfortable and inviting, the kind of place that feels like you've been invited into someone's living room," said Bonnie.

"The [fictitious] Moon Under Water was all about atmosphere, so is this. This is Rock Bay, an industrial area and you need a little atmosphere to get away from it all."

"Maybe we're living in a dream world but we'll see," added Don with a laugh.

For the couple, the ideal pub is a lot of things, but there are a few things it is definitely not.

According to Don, it's not going to be loud, as they will be employing a number of sound-absorption mechanisms; it will not suffer for bad service, as you serve yourself, and it is not going to be a place to drink yourself silly.

"There is an alcohol problem out there and there are a lot of drinks out there made up specifically to get people hammered and there's lots of places to go and do that ... but it won't be here," said Don.

Bonnie pointed out there will be no chocolate or strawberry Kool Aid-flavoured, three-ounce martinis.

Instead there will be beer, cider and a collection of fine Scotch.

The brew, the centrepiece of the operation, will include three traditional English-styled beers -- a Moonlight Blonde, Lunar Pale Ale and a best-brewed bitter -- and a seasonal offering that will change with the weather.

They are also considering a rotating tap that will feature another local brewer.

The 2,100 square foot brewery and its massive German kettles -- imported following a brief stop in Korea where they were used at a now-closed brewpub -- will be on display behind glass.

The pub will also offer a limited menu that will feature local, fresh ingredients.

"I'd rather do a few things really, really well," said Don.

The couple are very hands-on in the construction of the pub.

They had a blank canvas with the warehouse style of Direct Buy.

Now they are hoping to have everything finished, permitted and approved for an opening on Oct. 1.

At this point there are benches roughed in, a snug under construction, a bar nearly set up and two fireplaces waiting for a spark.

There will be room for about 90 people as the pub is zoned for 104 seats including staff.

The Bradleys are hoping the slightly out-of-the-way spot and non-descript exterior will be overcome by word of mouth of the warmth and promise inside.

Bonnie said if it's going to work, Victoria is the right place for it given the culture that has embraced and cultivated the brewpub and microbrewing industry.

"It's a community that appreciates it," she said.

aduffy@tc.canwest.com