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B.C. wine pioneer blazed trail for robust industry in province

British Columbia wine industry trailblazer Harry McWatters passed away unexpectedly in his sleep at his Summerland home on Tuesday. The 74-year-old Order of B.C. recipient has been called the Godfather of B.C.
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Harry McWatters, a groundbreaker in B.C.Õs wine industry, started making wine when he was just a teen. He died this week at his home in Summerland.

British Columbia wine industry trailblazer Harry McWatters passed away unexpectedly in his sleep at his Summerland home on Tuesday. The 74-year-old Order of B.C. recipient has been called the Godfather of B.C. wines, a legend, a visionary and a pioneer.

Mike Klassen, B.C. wine-industry watcher and former executive director of the Wine Appellation Task Group, called McWatters an “incredible leader” who helped to turn the industry around when the 1989 Canada-U.S. Free Trade Agreement opened the market to a flood of California wines.

Until that time, the B.C. wine industry had been mostly growing hybrid vines — hardier stock that produced lesser wines.

“When [the Free Trade Agreement] came in, it was potentially devastating. They had market advantage and were marketing mostly cheap plonk. Harry decided to take on the world and plant vinifera grapes [native to the Mediterranean] and try to put B.C. on the international wine map.

“He had a huge influence that benefited everyone in the industry today. He was a big mentor for anyone in the industry.”

McWatters, who was born in Toronto and grew up in North Vancouver, first began experimenting with making wine at the age of 16.

He started his career as a salesman for Casabello Wines in 1968 and fell in love with the industry.

In 1981, McWatters co-founded Sumac Ridge Estate Winery, B.C.’s first estate winery, and championed the adoption of the Meritage red wine blend designation that was America’s answer to the Bordeaux red blend, said wine critic Anthony Gismondi. “He got the stuff done, and we have to thank him for doing a lot of the dirty work early on, and never giving up.”

Not only did McWatters put B.C. wines on the map internationally, he was a tireless organizer and promoter within Canada, always referring to local wines as wines from “British Columbia” rather than “B.C.”

Miles Prodan, president and CEO of the B.C. Wine Institute, of which McWatters was a founder, said: “Harry’s presence was felt whenever he walked into the room. He was fair, jovial, single-minded and he always had a plan.”

In 1990, McWatters was involved in establishing the wine institute’s VQA designation, as well as Canada VQA, trade designations intended as a guarantee of quality, which established specific standards for designated wines.

“At that time, there were nowhere near as many wineries — maybe 20 — and everyone had a different opinion as to what a VQA wine should be, and he worked behind the board tables and closed doors on it,” said Prodan. “It’s a credit to that ability to reach consensus that his legacy is the B.C. VQA.”

His favourite way to begin a conversation, said Prodan, was, “ ‘Let me give you a bit of history.’ We’d roll our eyes and laugh, but whatever he had to say it was always meaningful.”

McWatters died with work left to do, said Prodan. “He was president and CEO of a wine business that has three different brands, and a downtown Penticton Time Winery and restaurant. He wasn’t slowing down.

In 2001, McWatters received an honorary doctor of laws degree from Okanagan University College, and later founded the Vintage Consulting Group, which includes the Okanagan Wine Academy in Summerland. 

McWatters leaves behind his wife Lisa, daughter Christa-Lee, also a respected vintner, and son Darren.