Explore Dickensian London

 

 
 
 
 
The George pub was frequented by Charles Dickens and other literary giants. The month of February marks an international celebration of the life and work of Charles Dickens on the bicentenary of his birth, which was on Feb. 7.
 

The George pub was frequented by Charles Dickens and other literary giants. The month of February marks an international celebration of the life and work of Charles Dickens on the bicentenary of his birth, which was on Feb. 7.

Photograph by: Finbarr O'reilly, Reuters , Reuters

London in the 21st century is not all that different from the heaving Victorian metropolis forever preserved in the novels of English writer Charles Dickens, whose 200th birthday last week.

Fans of Dickens can still walk the same streets of the city - whose population helped to inspire such characters as Oliver Twist, Ebenezer Scrooge and Bella Wilfer - visit the writer's house and have a drink at some of his old watering holes.

FRIDAY

7 p.m. - Check into a London Hotel near Russell Square, a stone's throw from the Doughty Street home where Dickens penned some of his greatest works.

8 p.m. - Ride on London's Underground railway (known to locals as the "tube") to a late-evening theatre showing in atmospheric Covent Garden, a bustling square even in Dickens's day which he used to frequent after a day's work at his office.

Dickens was a dramatist and became involved in amateur theatre from his days at Tavistock house, directing, acting and raising money for London's needy.

10: 30 p.m. - Covent Garden is a hive of activity at night, with numerous bars and clubs lining the cobbled squares and streets. Duck into The Marquis on Chandos Place, explore the upstairs dining area, discuss the writer's works or watch passersby in the now modernized Dickensian haunt.

SATURDAY

10 a.m. - Start the day off at Borough Market boroughmarket.org.uk) just up from the banks of the River Thames and across from London Bridge tube station. Searching through the food and other fare on offer to get a sense of the kind of neighbourhood and type of market under the railway arches that the writer would have known well. Borough Market traces its roots back to the 11th century.

12 p.m. - Go for lunch at the George Inn, a 17th century pub which earns a mention in Little Dorrit and is London's last remaining galleried coaching inn. Dickens used to come here for coffee.

The George's aged twotiered balconies overlook a courtyard set aside for patrons to enjoy beer, ale, porter, stout and all other manner of drink as well as a hearty menu of pub food. This London treasure was rebuilt in 1676, after a fire destroyed the original. Shakespeare was another well-known regular. His rebuilt Globe Theatre is not far away.

1 p.m. - Go on a Dickens walk. There are any number of walking tour firms in London, which offer themed walks, including those for Charles Dickens. During the Christmas season London Walks (walks.com) offers a Christmas Carol tour, which explores the darker side of London and is led by a Victorian-dressed guide.

In February, the author of Walking Dickensian London, Richard Jones, will be giving guided walking tours. For details see: dickenslondontours.co.uk. Don't forget to drop by Westminster Abbey where Dickens is buried in Poet's Corner alongside Alfred Tennyson, Samuel Johnson, Rudyard Kipling and others.

4: 30 p.m. - By this stage, the weary traveller might appreciate a drink at one of the many public houses associated with the writer, where Dickens would take respite from his lengthy walks about the city, spurred by insomnia.

One of the places where the sometimes entertainer, gentleman and theatrical personality drank and ate was at Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese.

The pub, which was alluded to in a Tale of Two Cities is on Fleet Street, and is still a dark, cramped series of odd-shaped rooms, the walls thick with history and adorned with copies of Victorian-era paintings.

Other famous literary figures associated with the pub include Oliver Goldsmith, Mark Twain, Tennyson, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, G.K. Chesterton and Samuel Johnson.

5: 30 p.m. - On the way to dinner, take in the sights and sounds of London, passing the Shard, the soontobecompleted tallest building in Europe, making the most of the photographic opportunities along London Bridge.

6: 30 p.m. - Spend the evening at your leisure. Dickens was a man who worked and played hard. Take a trip to the theatre in the West End or its modernday equivalent, the cinema, for a distraction from the quiet hum left by the day's exploration.

SUNDAY

9 a.m. - Head straight for the Dickens museum at 48 Doughty St., where the writer lived with his wife and where he wrote Oliver Twist. Get the abridged version of his life and upbringing from a short film.

Visitors can run their hands along the wooden crevices of the writer's desk, used by Dickens when he was a reporter at the Daily News, explore the house, which he complained was crowded and have a bite to eat in the museum café.

11 a.m. - Take a trip to the Old Curiosity Shop, which inspired the story of the same title. It still exists and bills itself as "the oldest shop in London." The 16thcentury building with a sloping tiled roof and its name writ large across the front is now home to an expensive shoe boutique.

1 p.m. - Visit the wharfs in Wapping and Limehouse, where ships in Victorian times used to unload spices, herbs, plants, wood and other goods from all over the world.

The old wharf houses have since been converted from storage houses into offices and apartments, but retain the patina of their heritage. The area contains a number of good places to stop for lunch.

The Grapes pub, which was built in 1720 and described by Dickens in Our Mutual Friend is now owned by English actor Ian McKellen. Charles Dickens knew this pub well, according to its description on pubs.com.


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The George pub was frequented by Charles Dickens and other literary giants. The month of February marks an international celebration of the life and work of Charles Dickens on the bicentenary of his birth, which was on Feb. 7.
 

The George pub was frequented by Charles Dickens and other literary giants. The month of February marks an international celebration of the life and work of Charles Dickens on the bicentenary of his birth, which was on Feb. 7.

Photograph by: Finbarr O'reilly, Reuters, Reuters

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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