On my most recent visit to Paris, I kept running into a delightful woman from Indiana on her first visit there. Wonderstruck by the city’s charms, she was doing everything right — picking up French words, conversing with every local she could and enjoying the great artistic and cultural experiences.
To get the most out of France, it’s essential to connect with the culture. Go on a wine tour, play boules with the locals and make an effort to understand what matters to the French about their country. If you’re a first-time visitor to France, following these tips can help you make the most of what’s sure to be a memorable trip.
Slow down and savour the experience. There’s a lot to see: three mountain ranges, two very different coastlines, several cosmopolitan cities and countless sleepy villages. If you only have one or two weeks for your first trip, don’t try to do too much. Limit yourself to Paris and perhaps one other popular region (Normandy, the Loire, the Dordogne, Provence or the French Riviera). You can’t experience l’art de vivre — the art of living — if you’re rushing around.
Learn the ins and outs of transit. Though you shouldn’t speed through the place you came to see, it makes sense to use the high-speed bullet train (TGV) to get between far-flung destinations. Buy early; advance-purchase discounts can get snapped up months ahead — and if you’re travelling with a rail pass, reserve your TGV seats as soon as you can. Local trains and buses get you to smaller towns — or you can rent a car when you get there.
Manual-transmission cars are cheaper to rent and get better mileage. Driving rules are largely the same as in North America, but mind the speed limit — speed cameras are everywhere and tickets are costly. At the pump, make sure you’re getting the right fuel: Essence is gasoline while gasoil is diesel.
In Paris, transit passes decrease your cost per ride: Buy a carnet of 10 Métro tickets or a Passe Navigo (which covers Paris as well as trips to outlying châteaux and the airports; the weekly pass is valid Monday to Sunday).
Memorize at least five French phrases. You’ll get better treatment if you at least use basic French pleasantries: bonjour (good day); pardon (pardon me) — you’ll be using it on the Métro; s’il vous plaît (please); merci (thank you); and au revoir (goodbye).
Sightsee smartly. Check for sightseeing passes and combo-ticket deals. For example, the Paris Museum Pass pays for itself with four key admissions in two days (for example, the Louvre and Orsay museums, Sainte-Chapelle church and the Palace of Versailles), and it lets you skip the ticket line at most sights. Without a pass, you can buy advance tickets online to save time in line at popular sights. It’s always smart to reserve a ticket for the Eiffel Tower well in advance of your trip.
Treat your taste buds. A good meal is a three-hour joyride for the senses — as rich as visiting an art gallery and as stimulating as a good massage. Choose a spot filled with locals and off the main drag. Restaurants open for dinner about 7 p.m. and are most crowded at about 8:30 p.m. — it’s smart to reserve ahead for a splurge meal. Café hours are generally longer than restaurants, and they offer more simple and quick options on their menus. When considering the high cost of eating out, remember that tax and tip (which amount to about 25 per cent back home) are included in the prices on the menu.
Sleep in style: I like well-placed, family-run two-star hotels. They are simple, comfortable and can be preferable to a fancier three-star place in a less charming location.
In Paris, apartment rentals are generally no cheaper than nice hotels, but you’ll get more space and can save some money on meals. A fine budget alternative in expensive cities are short-term rental services such as Airbnb. In the countryside, home rentals (gîtes) are a great value: For an average of about $1,500 US a week, you can rent a three-bedroom two-bathroom place — that’s $500 each for three couples.
The most important tip is to travel with the right attitude … embrace the French ways. Avoid the temptation to approach differences judgmentally. Travel with a spirit of adventure and strive to get out of your comfort zone. If you travel with the childlike joy and wide-eyed enthusiasm of the traveller from Indiana, you’re sure to have the trip of your dreams. You might even come home a Francophile!
Rick Steves writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on U.S. public television and radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com.
