MILAN - "Modern with a romantic soul," is how Gucci designer Frida Giannini describes the man she has in mind for next winter.
The new collection presented Monday in a downtown Milan hotel was marked by a return to classic styles from the 1960's, contemporized by a sleek silhouette and techno fabrics. A simple silk kerchief tied around the neck becomes the hip theme of the season.
The latest Gucci suit comes in oversized Prince of Wales tweed, with a tailored jacket and comfortable trousers. As in most shows seen on the current Milan runway, pullovers abound. Whether crewneck or turtleneck, bulky is what makes the difference.
For next winter Gucci brings back an all-time favourite, the military redingote, complete with metal buttons and belted back. For the super romantics, the coat comes with a furry collar just like the one Omar Sharif wore as "Doctor Zhivago."
By night, the Gucci man shies away from traditional garb, sporting a tuxedo jacket with a lavish black silk lapel, but fashioned out of refined daytime fabrics. Another evening outfit combines silk printed pants with a light wool black jacket, or reverses the order: printed jacket over black pants.
The winter palette is one of the brightest seen during the current menswear fashion week, adding ochre, orange, red and green to the staple black, blue and grey.
Iconic detail comes in the bamboo buttoning on a classic duffel coat or riding crop clasps on the latest Gucci backpack.
The latest Gucci shoe is an oversized lace-up. Given the number of similar styles showing up all over the Milan runway, it is becoming the defining accessory of the season.
