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Ask Eric: Delicious dishes of squash

Dear Eric: Our family just recently discovered sweet-potato squash. We only have had it barbecued and enjoyed it immensely. We know it has more potential than this.
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In this perfect-for-Thanksgiving side dish, sweet-potato squash (a.k.a. delicata squash or peanut squash) is roasted with Brussels sprouts and tasty flavourings.

Eric AkisDear Eric: Our family just recently discovered sweet-potato squash. We only have had it barbecued and enjoyed it immensely. We know it has more potential than this. Can you provide some great recipes?
Michael

Dear Michael: When I first read your question I didn’t think I was going to be able to assist you, because I had never heard of that squash before. But after some quick research, I realized I did know it, but by its other name, delicata squash.

Delicata squash is an heirloom variety with a creamy-coloured, green-striped skin that beyond its other handle, sweet-potato squash, is also called a peanut squash.
All the names for this squash make sense.

Delicata is the Italian word for delicate, and that’s how you could describe this winter squash’s skin, which is softer than other types and is edible.
This cylindrical squash is shaped like a peanut, but, of course, is much larger, with the ones I’ve purchased being 12.5 to 18 centimetres long, and five to eight centimetres wide.

The nutritious orangey flesh of this squash is sweet, rich and moist, which is why some compare its taste and texture to that of an orange-fleshed sweet potato.
This type of squash could also be labelled “versatile.” To showcase that, I have listed a variety of simple ways to use it and offer a side-dish recipe you could serve for Thanksgiving dinner.

You’ll find this squash for sale at farmers markets and some supermarkets, but it’s best to call the place where you shop to see if they have them.

Sliced and roasted: Cut the squash in half lengthwise and remove the seeds. Leave the skin on. Cut the squash, widthwise, into 1.25-cm slices and set in a bowl. Toss and coat with olive oil or melted butter, salt, pepper and pinches of ground spices, such as nutmeg, clove and cinnamon. Set the slices on a parchment-paper-lined baking sheet and roast at 375 F for 30 minutes, until tender.

Boil, steam or microwave: Cut the squash in half lengthwise and remove the seeds. Leave the skin on. Cut into cubes and steam, boil or microwave until tender, about three to six minutes, depending on the number and size of the cubes and cooking technique. Drizzle and sprinkle cooked squash with melted butter, chopped parley, salt and pepper and serve.

Grilled: Cut the squash in half lengthwise and remove the seeds. Leave the skin on. Cut the squash, widthwise into 1.25-cm slices and set in a bowl. Toss and coat with olive oil, salt and pepper.

Grill the squash over medium-high heat until tender, about two minutes per side. Drizzle and sprinkle grilled squash with chopped basil and balsamic
vinegar.

Stuffed and baked: Cut the squash in half lengthwise and remove the seeds. Set the squash halves in a baking pan, skin-side down. Fill the cavity of the squash as desired, with a rice-, quinoa-, bread-, vegetable- or meat-based filling. Bake the squash until tender and the filling is hot and cooked.

Add it to stew or curry: Add and cook unpeeled cubes of the squash in a stew or curry, just like you would other vegetables, such as carrots or potatoes.

Use it in pasta: Toss cooked, unpeeled cubes of squash with hot pasta and other vegetables and flavourings, such as chopped fresh sage or pesto, olive oil, garlic, red peppers and grated Parmesan cheese.

Put in on a pizza: Use grilled or roasted slices of squash as a pizza topping.

Roast the seeds: The squash seeds are edible and could be roasted like pumpkin seeds.


Roasted Squash and  Brussels Sprouts With Walnuts, Sage and Balsamic
 

Serve this rustic, perfect-for-autumn vegetable dish with turkey or other roast.

Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: About 50 minutes
Makes: Eight servings

1 lb small- to medium-size Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved lengthwise
1 (1 1/4 lb) sweet-potato (delicata) squash
1 medium red onion, halved and cubed
3 large garlic cloves, sliced
• pinches ground nutmeg and cinnamon
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus some for drizzling
• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
16 small fresh whole sage leaves
1/2 cup walnut pieces
2 Tbsp balsamic vinegar

Bring a large pot of water to boil. Boil the Brussels sprouts two minutes, until tender on the outside but still firm in the middle. Now drain well, cool in cold water and drain well again. Place Brussels sprouts in a bowl and set aside.

Preheat the oven to 350 F. Line a side baking sheet with parchment paper. Cut the squash in half lengthwise and remove the seeds. Now cut each half squash into four-centimetre cubes and place them in the bowl. Add the onion, garlic, spices and 1/4 cup oil and toss to combine. Spread the squash mixture on the baking sheet, set in the middle of the oven and roast 25 minutes.

Remove the pan from the oven and stir in the Brussels sprouts, sage, walnuts, salt and pepper into the squash. Put the pan back in the oven and roast 20 minutes more, or until the vegetables are tender. Drizzle the vegetables with the vinegar, spoon into a serving dish and enjoy.

Eric’s options: If you wanted to serve this for Thanksgiving dinner, but will also be roasting a turkey, you could roast the vegetables in advance, cool them on the baking sheet, cover and refrigerate them. When the turkey is cooked and resting, simply pop the vegetables back into the oven until warm, and then drizzle with the vinegar.  

If you can’t find sweet-potato squash, you could try cubes of another type of squash in this recipe, such as acorn.

Eric Akis is the author of The Great Rotisserie Chicken Cookbook (Appetite by Random House). His columns appear in the Life section Wednesday and Sunday.