I have received several requests recently for an alternative to turkey for Christmas dinner. Several people particularly asked about roast duck. I love roast duck and have no hesitation recommending it for any festive meal.
If you’ve never roasted a duck (or if you did roast one but weren’t completely pleased with the result) read the information below before trying today’s recipe, which yields two sumptuous roast ducks and a divine citrus brandy sauce.
Buying and handling: Ducks are often sold frozen, and stores stock limited quantities. Before you put duck on your special-occasion menu, be sure your shop has it or can order it for you.
The safest way to thaw a frozen bird is to set it in a sided pan in the refrigerator. It will take about 36 hours to thaw. Another safe thawing method is to completely submerge it in cold water, where it will thaw in four or so hours.
Serving size: The typical domestically raised duck sold in supermarkets and butcher shops weighs about two to 2.5 kilograms (four or five pounds). Many recipes say a bird that size should yield four servings of rich meat if carved correctly and served with inviting side dishes. However, a duck is quite fatty, has a large cavity and much less meat than a chicken the same weight would have. That’s why in my recipe I’ve said that each duck cooked will yield three to four servings. Plan on the first number if you have hearty eaters coming for dinner.
How to roast: Two main goals when roasting duck are to render out as much of the fat under the skin as possible, and to make that skin crispy. There are various methods for achieving this. In today’s recipe, I used three key steps. The first was to prick the raw bird all over with a fork. These small holes will allow the melting fat to drain out of the bird as it cooks. The second is to slowly pour boiling water over the raw bird, a process that tightens up the skin and makes it crisper when cooked. The last step is to turn the duck twice during roasting, cooking it both breast side and back side up for a while. This ensures the bird is crisp all over and allows its tasty juices to flow all around the duck.
How to carve roast duck: There are a few ways to carve a roast duck, but this method is relatively easy and yields eight to 12 nice pieces, or more if you include the crispy wing tips.
1. With a sharp carving knife, on one side of the duck cut through the skin between the thigh and the breast. Pull the thigh away from the body and expose the hip joint. Cut through that joint and remove the leg. Repeat these steps to remove the other leg. Cut each leg into drumstick and thigh pieces and set on a serving platter.
2. Cut off the tip and middle portion of each wing. Keep them for stock, or put them on the serving platter with the cut legs. They’ll be very crisp, but someone might enjoy them. Leave the upper part of each wing, the part still attached to the breast, in place.
3. Starting at the tail end, remove one side of the breast from the body by vertically cutting as close as you can along the breast bone. When you reach the wishbone, just above the wing, cut down along the wishbone toward the wing and remove the breast meat. Repeat this cut on the other side of the duck. Cut each breast widthwise into two to three pieces, set them on a platter and serve.
Eric Akis is the author of the hardcover book Everyone Can Cook Everything. His columns appear in the Life section Wednesday and Sunday.
Roast Duck with Citrus Brandy Sauce
This recipe yields two succulent, crisp-skinned, roast ducks. This should provide six to eight servings, depending on appetite and other dishes being served. You can make the citrus brandy sauce while the ducks roast. Use a shallow-side roasting pan, as that will ensure the heat of the oven more directly cooks and evenly browns each bird.
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Cooking time: two hours
Makes: six to eight servings
For the sauce
1/4 cup butter
1/4 cup brown sugar
1 1/2 cups cup orange juice
1 1/2 cups chicken stock
1/2 cup brandy
2 tsp finely grated orange zest
1 tsp finely grated lemon zest
1/3 cup lemon juice
2 tsp chopped fresh ginger
1 Tbsp soy sauce
1/4 cup chicken stock
3 Tbsp cornstarch
• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Place the butter and sugar in a medium pot set over medium heat. Stir, and when both are melted, bubbling and caramel-like, slowly and carefully (watch for splatters!) whisk in the orange juice. Now mix in 1 1/2 cups stock, brandy, zests, lemon juice, ginger and soy sauce. Bring to a simmer, and simmer five minutes.
Place the 1/4 cup stock in a small bowl and mix in the cornstarch until smooth. Whisk the mixture into the pot, return to a simmer and cook until the sauce has thickened, about two minutes. Remove the sauce from the heat, season with salt and pepper, cover and reserve until ready to reheat and use as described below.
For the ducks and to serve
2 (4 1/2 lb.) ducks, thoroughly patted dry
4 cups boiling water
• salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Set a roasting rack in a large, shallow-sided roasting pan. Remove the innards (such as the liver, if included) and the neck from the cavity of each duck and save for another use. Prick and pierce the skin of each duck all over, and several times, with a fork. Tie the legs of each duck together and fold and tuck the wings under the body. Set the ducks, breast side up and not touching, on the roasting rack.
Carefully and slowly pour 2 cups of the boiling water over each duck. (This process will tighten the skin and make it crisper when cooked.) Let the ducks cool. Meanwhile, set an oven rack in middle position. Preheat the oven to 425 F.
When the ducks are cool, pour out any water that ended up in the cavity of each duck. Leave the water that ends up in the bottom of the pan. Pat the skin on each duck dry, and then season inside and out with salt and pepper.
Roast the ducks, breast side up, for 45 minutes. Tilt each duck to drain any liquid in the cavity. Now carefully turn each duck over and roast, breast-side-down, 45 minutes more. Turn the ducks breast side up again and roast 35 to 45 minutes more, or until skin is crispy and richly browned.
Transfer the ducks to a cutting board, loosely tent with foil and rest 15 minutes.
While the ducks rest, bring your citrus brandy sauce back to a simmer. When the birds are rested, carve them, arrange on a platter and set on the table.
Pour the sauce into a decorative sauceboat and serve alongside the duck.
