Dear Eric: There are many types of onions out there, and unless a recipe calls specifically for one type, I’m usually at a loss as to what type to use.
Any light you could shed on the use of onions in cooking would be appreciated. Linda Parsons
Dear Linda: Below you’ll find a bushel of information about the onions sold at most supermarkets. If you want to try all the onions in one go, simmer up the soup recipe below.
Yellow Onions
In stores, this onion gets the most shelf space because they’re the most common type used. It’s why some places simply label them onions.
They have an intense onion taste that mellows in flavour when cooked. If a recipe such as a soup, stew or casserole simply calls for an onion or two, with no mention of type, a yellow onion is your safest guess.
Some people find yellow onions are too strong to eat raw, but others, who enjoy their bold onion taste, would not agree.
Because they look similar, some mistakenly call a yellow onion a Spanish onion. But the latter, which is harder to find, is a different variety and has a milder taste.
Red onions
This onion has a reddish flesh and purple skin, why it’s sometimes also called a purple onion.
The red onion has a flavour similar to that of a yellow onion, but it’s not as forceful. For that reason, and because of its striking appearance, red onions are great to use in raw preparations, such as salsas, salads and burger toppings.
These onions can also be grilled and used in other cooked preparations. But keep in mind that the longer a red onion cooks, the more its colour fades and the less impressive it will look.
White onions
This onion has a white skin and a mild, slightly sweet, white flesh. It can be used for cooking, as you would a yellow onion. It takes on a lovely golden colour when sautéed, and would look good atop a grilled steak, for instance.
The mild taste makes white onions an excellent choice to use raw in a salad or piled on top of a burger. White onions are also the onion of choice for Mexican cuisine — chop them up to use in salsa, sauces and other creations.
Sweet onions
Sweet onions, as their name suggests, are much sweeter tasting than the onions noted above, and have a much milder flavour. These onions are popular around the world and often named for where they’re grown, such as Maui onions from Hawaii, and Walla Walla onions from the state of Washington.
Sweet onions are delicious raw, and can be cut and used in such things as salads, sandwiches and other preparations. They can also be cooked as you would a yellow onion, but, of course, will add a much sweeter taste.
Shallots
Shallots are a member of the onion family, but because of their size, shape and composition, look more like garlic. Shallots’ pedigree and appearance certainly match its taste, which has hints of onion and garlic.
That taste combination makes it a wonderful ingredient to use raw, such as in salad dressing, or as a topping for raw oysters. It can also be cooked and used to flavour such things as sauces, soups, egg dishes and much more.
Green Onions and Scallions
Although green onions and scallions look and taste similar, they are different members of the onion family.
Scallions are the shoots of a variety of white onion that does not form an enlarged bulb at the root end. Green onions are simply immature bulb onions sold with their green tops still attached.
These two types of onions can be used interchangeably in recipes. That’s a good thing, because if a recipe called for scallions, it would be much more difficult to find, as green onions are more commonly available.
Six Onion Soup with Thyme and Dijon
This soup involves a mix of onions sautéed until sticky and golden. They are then simmered into a most delicious soup accented with wine, mustard and thyme.
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: About 55 minutes
Makes: 6 servings
1 Tbsp butter
2 Tbsp olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, halved and thinly sliced
1 medium red onion, halved and thinly sliced
1 medium white onion, halved and thinly sliced
1 medium sweet onion, halved and thinly sliced
1 large shallot, finely chopped
1 1/2 tsp minced fresh thyme leaves, or 1/2 tsp dried
2 Tbsp tomato paste
2 Tbsp Dijon mustard
6 1/2 cups homemade or low sodium chicken or beef stock
1/2 cup white or red wine
3 green onions, thinly sliced
• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Place the butter and oil in a heavy-bottomed pot and set over medium heat. When the butter has melted, add the yellow, red, white and sweet onions, and the shallots. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions start to soften and become translucent, about 10 minutes.
Uncover, turn the heat up slightly and cook, stirring frequently and watching carefully to avoid burning them, until the onions are a rich golden in colour, about 10 to 15 minutes. Mix in the thyme, tomato paste, Dijon mustard and wine. Now add stock, bring to a gentle simmer, adjusting the heat as needed to maintain that gentle simmer. Simmer, uncovered, for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the soup is rich tasting. Now swirl in the green onion and cook one minute more. Taste the soup and season with salt and pepper as needed. Ladle into bowls and enjoy.
Eric options: To make onion soup gratinée, preheat the oven to 400 F. Ladle soup into ovenproof, onion soup bowls and set on a baking sheet. Top each soup with two or three toasted rounds of baguette, broken into pieces to make them fit into the bowl, if needed. Now top each soup with a generous amount of grated Swiss, Gruyere or emmental cheese. Bake for 15 minutes, or until the soup is bubbling and the cheese has melted.
Eric Akis is the author of the hardcover book Everyone Can Cook Everything. His columns appear in the Life section Wednesday and Sunday.
