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Ask Eric: Nuts for appetizers

Dear Eric: Wondering about storing nuts, such as what temperature and how long I can keep them, how airtight should they be and how to tell if they’ve gone off? — Ken Dear Ken: Walnuts, pecans, almonds, macadamias, hazelnuts, cashews and other nuts a

Dear Eric: Wondering about storing nuts, such as what temperature and how long I can keep them, how airtight should they be and how to tell if they’ve gone off? — Ken

Dear Ken: Walnuts, pecans, almonds, macadamias, hazelnuts, cashews and other nuts are rich in heart-healthy fats. That’s a good thing, but that fat also makes them susceptible to going rancid if stored improperly. You can prevent that from happening.

Where to store: When kept at warm temperatures for long periods, the fat in nuts changes in structure, which negatively affects aroma and flavour. That’s not a concern if you’ve bought only a small bag of nuts you’ll use in week or so but, if you buy in bulk, it could be a problem. To prevent nut oils from going rancid, store nuts in a cool place, such as the refrigerator or freezer.

How to store: Nuts absorb the tastes of other foods stored alongside them if not properly sealed. If your nuts came in a container or package that you can tightly reseal, once you’ve removed what you need, you could store them in that original packaging. Otherwise, transfer nuts to a tight-sealing container, such as a mason jar. Mark the date on the container so when you use them you’ll know how long they’ve been around.

How long to store: Storage time can vary from nut to nut, but generally speaking, shelled nuts can be kept in the refrigerator or freezer for 4 to 6 months, and nuts in the shell for 6 to 8 months.

How much to buy: Although you can store nuts for an extended period, for the freshest taste, always try to buy an amount that you’ll use up in a reasonable length of time, such as a few weeks, rather than a few months. While it’s always tempting to buy a giant bag or container of nuts because the price was so good, you won’t be saving any money if you’re pitching some out because they’ve gone off.

Where to buy: Nuts can go rancid in the store if they’re not stored properly and sold quickly. So select a retailer that sells a high volume of nuts and is constantly restocking with a fresh supply. Always smell and taste the nuts when you get home. If they have a hint of the taste and aroma noted in the next section, you will know what you’ve bought is past its prime and that retailer should be crossed off your list.

What do rancid nuts smell, taste and look like: Fresh nuts are solid-looking and have an almost sweet taste and mildly nutty aroma. If they taste bitter and have an unpleasant aroma, fishy or like paint thinner, they’re rancid and should be discarded. If the nuts have darkened or shrivelled, don’t expect them to taste good.

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Walnut-coated Canadian Cheddar Cheese Log

Here’s a simple, tasty appetizer, rich with cheese and nuts, that would make a nice pre-Thanksgiving-dinner snack.

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: None

Makes: one log (about eight servings)

1 cup walnut pieces (also called chopped walnut or walnut crumbs)

1 (250-gram) brick cream cheese, at room temperature

100 grams old Canadian cheddar cheese, grated

2 green onions, very thinly sliced

2 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley

1 Tbsp whole grain Dijon mustard

• splash or two of Worcestershire sauce

• freshly ground black pepper to taste

• assorted crackers

Spread the nuts on a plate and set aside. Place the cream cheese in the bowl of your stand mixer and beat until lightened. Mix in the cheddar cheese, onion, parsley, mustard, Worcestershire sauce and pepper. Lightly dampen your hands with cold water and shape the cheese mixture into a log that’s about six centimetres round and 22 centimetres long. Roll the log in the nuts, pressing them on to help them adhere. Wrap and refrigerate the cheese log at least two hours before serving with assorted crackers. It can be made a day in advance.

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Chipotle Lime Roasted Three-Nut Mix

Serve these smoky-tasting nuts with a hint of lime when you need something to munch on while watching the game, or when having friends over for drinks.

Preparation time: five minutes

Cooking time: 25 minutes

Makes: About three cups

1 cup pecan halves (about 110 grams)

1 cup whole blanched almonds (about 140 grams)

1 cup whole raw cashews (about 140 grams)

2 Tbsp vegetable oil

2 tsp finely grated lime zest (see Note 1)

2 Tbsp lime juice

1 tsp chipotle chili powder (see Note 2)

1 tsp ground cumin

1 Tbsp brown sugar

1 tsp sea salt, or to taste

Preheat the oven to 300 F. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Place all ingredients in a bowl and toss to combine.

Pour nuts onto the baking sheet and spread in a single layer. Set nuts in the oven and roast for 25 minutes until lightly toasted. Set on a baking rack and cool to room temperature. Transfer the nuts to an airtight container until ready to eat.

Note 1: One juicy, medium lime should yield the zest and juice needed for this recipe.

Note 2: Chipotle chili powder is sold in small jars in the spice aisle of many supermarkets.

 

Eric Akis is the author of the hardcover book Everyone Can Cook Everything. His columns appear in the Life section Wednesday and Sunday.

eakis@timescolonist.com