The season for warming comfort food has arrived, and to many people that means more potatoes. Kathleen Sloan-McIntosh, a veteran Ontario food writer who now runs a pub in Bayfield, Ont., has written the new cookbook 300 Best Potato Recipes: A Complete Cook's Guide (Robert Rose, $27.95). It's a winner for potato fans, and should convert others. Such traditional recipes as potato leek soup, potato salad, shepherd's pie and potato pancakes are interspersed with international specialties, including Jansson's temptation (a Swedish potato casserole) and Montreal poutine. Background information on history and varieties, and a glossary are interesting and useful.

This easy recipe calls for the increasingly popular sweet potato.

RECIPE

Sweet Potatoes with Gremolata

Serves 4

4 ounces pancetta, cubed

1 Tbsp olive oil

1 large sweet potato (1 lb.), peeled, in 1-inch chunks

1/4 cup butter

1/3 cup fresh bread crumbs

1 small bunch flat-leaf parsley, stems trimmed, finely chopped

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon or 1 orange

Salt and freshly ground pepper

In a heavy frying pan over medium heat, cook pancetta in oil, stirring, for 1 to 2 minutes. Add sweet potato and continue to cook, without stirring, for about 10 minutes or until potato pieces turn golden brown on the bottom. Using tongs, turn potatoes and cook 6 to 10 more minutes or until tender and browned on the other side. Remove pan from heat, cover and keep warm.

In another frying pan, melt butter over medium heat until bubbling. Stir in bread crumbs and cook, stirring, until golden brown and crisp; do not let it burn. Remove from heat and stir in parsley and zest.

Season to taste with salt and pepper (remembering that pancetta is salty), scrape breadcrumb mixture over potatoes and toss to combine. Serve immediately.