Q Are Idaho baking potatoes still available, the wonderful powdery potatoes that I used to find everywhere? If they are no longer being grown, why not? The Russet Burbanks that I'm offered in stores these days just won't do.

Raymond Vickery

I could not find Idaho potatoes for sale in Greater Victoria.

A But not seeing them is a case of market demand, not because they aren't grown anymore.

According to the Idaho Center for Potato Research and Education, Idaho is the largest potato-producing state in the U.S., accounting for more than 30 per cent of that nation's fall harvested acreage.

Idaho grows several potato varieties, but the one they've become most famous for is the Russet Burbank, developed in Lunenburg, Massachusetts, in the 1870s by horticulturalist Luther Burbank.

According to the University of Idaho, the introduction of that potato, often simply called a russet, possibly as early as 1895, kicked-started the Idaho potato industry.

Because those potatoes were grown so far from most U.S. consumers, that state's potato industry needed marketing help.

The Idaho Potato Commission was formed and a key goal was to market Idaho potatoes as a superior product, and it worked.

According to the Idaho Potato Commission website, idahopotato.com, Idaho's ideal growing conditions - the rich, volcanic soil, climate and irrigation - are what differentiate Idaho russet potatoes from those grown elsewhere.

That's why they've been trademarked; only russet potatoes grown in Idaho can be called Idaho potatoes.

The Idaho Potato Commission says, as Raymond has discovered, Idaho potatoes' high quantity of starch grains cook to a light, fluffy texture and full, firm appearance when properly prepared.

Idaho potatoes are exported to Canada, but why can't Raymond find them?

"The answer is that if you can't find them in B.C., then the retailers and distributors are deciding not to carry them. They are readily available, but probably more expensive due to the freight differential," said Seth Pemsler, a vice-president with the Idaho Potato Commission.

Consumer demand drives it, "so if people ask their retailer or distributor to get Idaho potatoes for them, they probably will," he said

With the buy-local trend in full force in Victoria, I can't see demand for Idaho potatoes growing anytime soon.

The stores I visited all had B.C. potatoes, with some stores also selling potatoes from Washington state and even from P.E.I. on the other side of the country.

According to the B.C. Fresh website, bcfreshvegetables.com, the group that helps promote B.C. produce, the russet potatoes grown in the Fraser Valley and other locales are mainly the Norkotah and the Gahrus varieties. They are oblong in shape, have shallow eyes and a slightly netted skin.

I find these potatoes to be of excellent quality. I prefer to buy them in bulk, not in bags, so I can be sure each one is a prime specimen.

These starchy, floury spuds, often simply called B.C. russet potatoes, or B.C. baking potatoes, are excellent for baking, mashing, roasting and turning into french fries. Raymond, give them a try in one of today's recipes and I think you'll find them quite appealing.

As for Idaho potatoes, you may need to take a trip to that state to enjoy them.

Eric Akis is the author of the bestselling Everyone Can Cook series of cookbooks. His columns appear in the Life section Wednesday and Sunday.

OLIVE OIL AND ROSEMARY BAKED B.C. POTATOES

These aromatic potatoes, almost fluffy in the middle and golden on the outside, are great alongside a grilled steak, roast chicken or lamb, baked salmon or other dish you like. You can serve them as a vegetarian dish with a green or Caesar salad alongside.

Preparation time: 5 minutes Cooking time: 90 minutes Makes: 4 servings

4 (7-to 8-oz.) B.C. russet (baking) potatoes, washed well and dried 3 Tbsp olive oil 6 to 8 fresh sprigs rosemary

- coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 300 F. Poke each potato a few times with a fork. Set potatoes in a 10-inch cast iron or other oven-proof skillet.

Pour in the olive oil; season with salt and pepper. Roll the potatoes around to coat them in the oil. Season the top of the potatoes with a little more salt and pepper, if desired. Set the rosemary sprigs in the spaces between each potato

Bake the potatoes for 90 minutes or until quite tender. Let diners open and top their potato as desired, with such things as sour cream, yogurt, sliced green onion, snipped chives, bacon and/ or grated cheese.

WHIPPED BUTTERMILK B.C. POTATOES WITH GREEN ONIONS

A last-minute whip with a hand mixer makes these potatoes deliciously light and airy. Serve spuds alongside roast beef, pork or chicken, meatloaf or gravytopped hamburger steaks.

Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 18-20 minutes Makes: 6 servings 2 1?2 lb B.C. russet (baking) potatoes, peeled, quartered and rinsed 1?2 cup buttermilk 3 Tbsp melted butter

- salt and white pepper to taste 2 to 3 green onions, very thinly sliced

Place potatoes in a pot, cover with cold water by at least 2 inches. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat until the potatoes simmer gently.

Simmer until very tender, about 18 to 20 minutes.

Drain potatoes well and mash thoroughly. Add the buttermilk, butter and salt and pepper. Beat the potatoes with a handheld mixer until light and airy. Mix in the green onions and serve.

Eric's options: If you use a stand mixer, mash the potatoes using the paddle attachment. Put on the whip attachment, add the buttermilk, butter and seasonings, and whip until fluffy. Mix the green onions into the spuds and serve.

eakis@timescolonist.com