If you feel like spoiling yourself and love lamb, a cut that will definitely satisfy is the rack. It’s the juicy and succulent “prime rib” of that animal — a premium cut taken from the rib section.

Most lamb racks are sold “frenched,” giving it a clean look and making it less fatty and easy to eat.

In the “frenching” process, the butcher removes the chine bone, which connects the backbone and the rib bones. Doing that allows the diner to carve the lamb between the bones.

Next, a sharp knife is used to expose the upper portion of the rib bones by removing the fat, sinew and meat on and between them. The rack-long flap of loose fat and fatty flesh above the eye — the lean meat — of the rack is also removed.

When properly frenched, the upper bones will look quite clean and only a fairly thin layer of fat will be left on the meat and none of it will be loose. If the lamb does not look like that, it has not been properly frenched and you’re paying for more fat and sinew than you should be, not what you want given its price.

A whole and properly frenched rack of lamb usually weighs 650 to 800 grams depending on the size of animal it was cut from. It will have eight rib bones and contain a prime and tender section of meat. With each animal yielding only two whole racks, and with each rack yielding two, maybe three servings if part of a multi-course meal, you can understand why it’s an expensive cut.

At stores I visited, the meat cost between $50 and just under $60 per kilogram.Lower-priced lamb is often sold at larger supermarkets and raised in high-production areas of our country, such as Alberta, or other countries such as Australia. The higher-price lamb comes from smaller local farms, such as those on southern Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands, and is most often sold at stand-alone butcher shops and smaller grocery stores.

All are fine quality products, but I prefer our incredibly flavourful local lamb as I can see first-hand the lush pastures the animals feed on and can ask the butcher exactly where it came from.

At the prices noted above, a whole rack of lamb will cost about $32 to $40 each, about $16 to $20 per portion if you cut the rack in half to serve two. For most, that puts rack of lamb in the same category as lobster or filet mignon — something you only serve on a special occasion, such as a romantic dinner or a gathering of close friends.

The good news is that lamb will make a most memorable entrée that’s not particularly hard to cook. Because it’s sold frenched, it’s ready to cook, no trimming required. Because of its size, it also cooks quickly, usually less than 30 minutes depending on desired doneness.

In these two recipes for rack of lamb, one is a little fussier French-style preparation where the meat is first quickly seared before being slathered in mustard, coated in herb and garlic breadcrumbs, then roasted. The other recipe is Greek-style lamb, quickly marinated with lemon, olive oil, garlic and herbs to add flavour, not tenderize, before being roasted.

Both styles of lamb could be served with simply cooked mini potatoes, asparagus and small carrots with the tips still attached.

Roast Rack of Lamb Provençal

French-style lamb seared, brushed with Dijon mustard and coated with garlicky/herb breadcrumbs. This recipe could easily be expanded to feed a larger group.

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Cooking time: About 30 to 40 minutes

Makes: 2 servings

1 Tbsp olive oil

1 ( 8-rib) frenched lamb rack

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1/2 cup fresh breadcrumbs (see Note)

1/2 tsp herbes de Provence (see Note)

2 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley

1 medium garlic clove, minced

2 to 3 tsp Dijon mustard

1/3 cup red wine

3/4 cup beef stock

1 Tbsp all-purpose flour

Heat oil in an ovenproof skillet set over medium-high. Season lamb with salt and pepper, and then sear two minutes on each side. Set lamb on a plate.

Preheat oven to 400 F with rack in middle. Combine the breadcrumbs, herbes de Provence, parsley and garlic on a plate. Cut the lamb into two pieces, each with four ribs.

Brush the top of the lamb with the mustard. Dip the mustard-coated portion of each lamb rack in the breadcrumb mixture, pressing the crumbs on to help them adhere. Set the lamb, crust side up, back in the ovenproof skillet.

Roast the lamb 21 to 24 minutes for rare; 24 to 27 minutes for medium-rare; and 29 to 30 minutes for medium. (For rare, when checked with an instant-read meat thermometer, the very centre of the meat should be 125 F. For medium-rare it should be 130 F, and for medium 140 F.)

Transfer the lamb to a plate, cover loosely with foil and let rest for five minutes.

Meanwhile, drain excess fat from the skillet and place on the stovetop over medium-high heat. Add the wine and simmer until reduced by half. Place the stock and flour in a small bowl and whisk until smooth. Add to the pan and simmer until a thickened sauce forms, about two minutes. Season the sauce with salt and pepper.

To serve, pour a pool of sauce on each of two dinner plates. Set a lamb rack on each plate and enjoy.

Note: To make the fresh breadcrumbs, trim the crusts off two slices of white bread. Cube the bread and set in a food processor. Pulse until you turn them into breadcrumbs and they are ready to use.

Herbes de Provence is a French-style blend available in the bottled herb and spice aisle of many supermarkets.

Greek-style Roast Rack of Lamb

The tender lamb in this recipe is flavoured Greek-style with lemon, olive oil, garlic and herbs. This recipe could easily be expanded to feed a larger group.

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: About 30 to 40 minutes

Makes: 2 servings

2 Tbsp olive oil

1 tsp finely grated lemon zest

2 Tbsp lemon juice

1/2 tsp dried oregano

1/2 tsp dried mint

1/4 tsp paprika

1/8 tsp cayenne pepper

1 large garlic clove, minced

1 (8-rib) frenched lamb rack

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

3/4 cup beef stock

Preheat oven to 400 F with rack in middle. Place the first eight ingredients in a bowl large enough to hold the lamb. Cut the lamb into two, four-rib racks, set in the bowl and turn to coat with the marinade. Marinate the lamb at room temperature 30 minutes.

Set the lamb, meaty side up, in a small roasting pan. Brush with any marinade left in the bowl. Season the lamb with salt and pepper.

Roast lamb 22 to 25 minutes for rare; 25 to 28 minutes for medium-rare; and 30 minutes for medium. See my previous recipe, on page C1, for temperatures.

Transfer lamb to a plate, cover loosely with foil and let rest for five minutes.

To make jus for the lamb, place the roasting pan on the stovetop over medium-high heat. Add the stock, bring to a simmer, simmer two minutes and then reserve on low heat.

To serve, pour jus on each of two dinner plates. Set a lamb rack on each plate and enjoy.

Eric Akis is the author of the just-published hardcover book Everyone Can Cook Everything.

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