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Eric Akis: Dress up the parsnip

Nutty, buttery root vegetable can be used in soup, mash and even cake
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This smooth parsnip and leek soup is topped with tangy blue cheese.

akis.jpgIn my recent article on food trends, root vegetables were predicted to be an item chefs and home cooks would be using in more inventive ways.

The humble and unglamorous parsnip is a root vegetable, and at first glance you might wonder how it could become trendy. Yes, it has long been a reliable vegetable to cook and serve beside your favourite roast, but what else can you do with it?

Well, there’s a lot you can do with a parsnip, and today’s three recipes showcase this earthy and slightly sweet, nutty and buttery tasting vegetable’s versatility.

I love using parsnips in puréed soups, because once they’re cooked and whirled smooth, they have a lovely, velvety, creamy look and mouth feel, minus the cream. For today’s recipe, I adapted my recipe for classic leek and potato soup and instead made parsnip and leek soup. It’s perfect for lunch, especially when topped with nuggets of tangy blue cheese. Add some crusty bread and life will be good.

My second recipe is an entrée and bit of a spin on the English dish “bangers and mash.” For the dish, I set roasted sausages on a mash made with parsnips, apples and fresh ginger. The mash was accented with nutmeg, and it proved to the perfect foil for the rich sausages. Rather than smothering things in gravy as you would with “bangers and mash,” I suggest you complement this dish with a condiment such as sharp mustard or sweet and sour chutney.

In my last recipe, I used parsnips in a moist and sweet cake that is similar to carrot cake, but uses grated parsnips in place of that vegetable. The coconut, pineapple, currants and spice added to the batter ensured the cake turned out to be quite wonderful and even more so when spread with an irresistible cream cheese frosting.

When buying parsnips for today’s recipes or any other use, opt for firm, bright-looking ones free of cracks and/or dark sunken spots. Store them in a plastic bag in your refrigerator crisper until needed; they will keep many days if in good condition.

Parsnips contain potassium, fibre, folic acid, vitamin C and other good things. Good reasons to eat this vegetable, whether trendy or not.

 

Parsnip and Leek Soup with Blue Cheese

Make a fine winter lunch by serving this soup with crusty bread. If you don’t care for the strong taste of blue cheese, top the soup with nuggets of a milder cheese, such as soft goat cheese.

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: About 30 minutes

Makes: 4 servings

 

3 Tbsp vegetable oil

1 lb parsnips, peeled, halved lengthwise and sliced (about 4 medium parsnips)

1 1/2 cups sliced leeks, white and pale green part only (about 1 medium leek)

1 large garlic clove, minced

2 Tbsp all-purpose flour

1/4 tsp dried thyme

4 cups chicken or vegetable stock (or broth)

• pinch ground nutmeg

• salt and white pepper, to taste

75 grams blue cheese, crumbled

• salt to taste

 

Place the oil in a medium to large pot set over medium heat. Add the parsnips, leeks and garlic and cook until softened, about five minutes. Mix in the flour and thyme and cook and stir two minutes more. While stirring, slowly pour in the stock.

Bring the soup to a gentle simmer. Simmer the soup until the parsnips and leeks are very tender, about 15 minutes. Purée the soup in a blender or food processor; or purée in the pot with an immersion blender.

Return the soup to a simmer; season with nutmeg, salt and pepper. Ladle the soup into bowls, top each serving with some blue cheese and enjoy.

 

Roasted Sausages with Parsnip, Ginger and Apple Mash

The fresh banger or bratwurst sausages used in this recipe are available at most supermarkets and butcher shops. If desired, you could also use any other fresh sausage you think would work well with the mash. For added colour on the plate, serve the sausages and mash with a steamed green vegetable.

Preparation: 20 minutes

Cooking time: 25 minutes

Makes: Two servings

 

3/4 lb parsnips, peeled and cubed (about 1 large, or 2 small to medium parsnips)

1 large red apple, peeled, cored and cubed

2 tsp chopped fresh ginger

4 (about 75 grams each) fresh English-style banger or bratwurst

2 tsp butter

2 Tbsp milk

• salt and white pepper to taste

• pinch ground nutmeg

• chopped fresh parsley or sliced green onion, to taste

• whole grain mustard or Major Grey or mango chutney, to taste

Preheat the oven to 400 F. Place the parsnip, apple and ginger in a small to medium pot and cover with two inches of cold water. Set on the stove over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat until the water simmers and cook until parsnips and apples are quite tender, about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, place the sausages in a small, non-stick or parchment paper-lined roasting pan. Roast sausages, turning occasionally, until golden and cooked through, about 25 minutes.

When tender, drain parsnips and apples, and mash (they do not have to be perfectly smooth). Mix in the butter, milk, salt, pepper and nutmeg.

Divide and mound some of the mash in the centre of each of two plates. Arrange two sausages on each plate, and then sprinkle with parsley or green onion. Dollop a spoon of mustard or chutney on each plate and serve.

 

Parsnip, Coconut and Pineapple Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting

This sweet, moist cake is similar to carrot cake, but the carrot is replaced with parsnip. You can bake, cool and ice the cake hours before serving.

Preparation: 25 minutes

Cooking time: 45 to 50 minutes

Makes: eight to 10 servings

 

• vegetable oil spray

3/4 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup unsweetened applesauce

1/4 cup vegetable oil

2 large eggs

1 tsp pure vanilla extract

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 tsp baking soda

1 tsp baking powder

1/2 tsp salt

1 tsp ground cinnamon

1/4 tsp ground nutmeg

1/3 unsweetened medium coconut flakes

1/3 cup currants

1 1/4 cups grated parsnips (see Note)

1 cup canned pineapple tidbits, drained very well

125 grams firm cream cheese, at room temperature

1/4 cup butter, at room temperature

1/2 tsp pure vanilla extract

1 1/4 cups icing sugar

• walnut pieces, to taste (optional)

 

Preheat the oven to 350 F. Grease a nine-inch spring-form cake pan with vegetable oil spray. Cut a round of parchment paper the size of the bottom of the pan and set it there.

Combine the sugar, applesauce, oil, eggs and 1 tsp vanilla in a bowl. Place the flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt, cinnamon and nutmeg in a second bowl and whisk to combine. Mix in the coconut and raisins.

Mix the dry mixture into the wet. Stir in parsnips and pineapple. Spoon the batter into the pan (the batter will look shallow in the pan, but will rise nicely during baking). Bake the cake in the middle of the oven 45 to 50 minutes, or until the cake springs back when gently touched in the very centre. Cool cake to room temperature.

To make frosting, place cream cheese, butter and 1/2 tsp vanilla in a bowl and beat until light. Gradually beat in the icing sugar until well combined. Swirl and spread frosting on top of the cake. If desired, decorate the top of the cake with a few walnut pieces. Refrigerate cake until icing is set, and then serve.

Note: I used the largest holes on my box grater to grate the peeled parsnips.

Eric Akis is the author of the hardcover book Everyone Can Cook Everything. His columns appear in the Life section Wednesday and Sunday.