If you’re in need of inspiration on what to cook and sip this summer, four recently published books will fill you with palate-pleasing ideas. Below are short reviews of and recipes from the books. All books can be bought or ordered from local bookstores and online retailers.
On the Flavour Trail
TouchWood Editions, $29.95
This 184-page cookbook offers recipes from members of the Island Chefs’ Collaborative (iccbc.ca), a group of Vancouver Island food and beverage professionals keen on the development of sustainable local food systems. Chef Christabel Padmore co-ordinated the book’s creation, which took three long years — not surprising when you’re pulling together content from busy chefs working too many hours.
If you love to shop for, cook and eat local foods, you’ll see the effort was worth it. This book, broken into chapters that include sea, orchard, forest, field and farm, is rich with wonderful recipes for how to prepare them. They include drunken blueberries with honey ricotta, salmon pastrami, Comox brie quiche with butternut squash, eggplant pakoras, and braised pork cheeks with potato gnocchi.
Some of the many talented folks contributing recipes to the book include Heidi Fink, Cory Pelan, Tara Black and David Mincey. The book’s inspiring foreword is penned by CBC radio personality Don Genova, who reminds us how lucky we are to live in a place with such a bounty of good food, and talented chefs showing us how to make them taste splendiferous.
Plum: Gratifying Vegan Dishes from Seattle’s Plum Bistro
Sasquatch Books, $29.95
This 160-page hardcover vegan cookbook from Seattle’s bustling Plum Bistro (plumbistro.com) caught my attention the second I opened it. Author Makini Howell’s richly coloured, sure-to-be-delicious creations, photographed by Charity Burggraaf, jump off the page and made this meat-eater want to jump into the kitchen to cook.
Some of the book’s inventive recipes include tiramisu pancakes, curried red yam fries, barbecue oyster-mushroom sliders, pesto plum pizza, and strawberry crêpes with custard sauce.
The book, among other things, also contains gluten-free recipes, tips on vegan cooking, information on meat substitutes, and techniques for making dairy-like foods minus the dairy, such as basil soy “ricotta.” If a trip to Seattle to try the food at Plum Bistro is not in the cards, this book will provide a fine taste of what they offer. Of course, you’ll have to do the cooking!
Island Wineries of British Columbia
TouchWood Editions, $29.95
This book from the contributors of Eat magazine (eatmagazine.ca) is edited by that publication's publisher, Gary Hynes, and contains beautiful photographs by Rebecca Wellman. This is a newly released, updated and expanded second edition of the book, whose first edition won a Gourmand International Wine Book Award in 2011, and in 2012 was a finalist for the Bill Duthie Booksellers’ Choice Award.
Island Wineries of British Columbia attracted such positive attention because of its rich content, really being three books in one. It celebrates and informs you about Vancouver Island and Gulf Islands wine, from the grape varieties to who’s making it and how. The seasonally inspired recipes in the book offer you tasty ways to prepare local foods to enjoy with that wine. Lastly, the chapter on touring our wine region provides itineraries and maps to live the good life sipping and eating at local wineries, restaurants, farm markets and other culinary destinations.
Sea Salt: Recipes from the West Coast Galley
Harbour Publishing, $29.95
I’m not an avid boater, but when I have been out on the sea, I’ve noticed the fresh air and invigorating surroundings heighten one’s senses, particularly the palate. When mealtime comes, fine-tasting food seems to taste even grander and I can see that happening big-time if you cook up recipes from this 256-page book.
Authors Alison Malone Eathorne, Hilary Malone and Lorna Malone are dedicated sailors and spirited cooks who combined their talents to offer more than 100 tested-at-sea recipes that would taste just as inviting in your own dining room. The authors drew inspiration for their culinary creations from our area’s seafood, farmers’ markets and wineries.
Some of the book’s recipes include layered quinoa and bean salad, grilled harissa chicken, spiced lamb burgers, crab spaghettini with chili, lemon and basil, and cheesecake Nanaimo bars. The book’s many photographs by Christina Symons clearly and colourfully show how the food looks once prepared. Before you get to the recipes, the authors have a section that offers tips on stocking your galley pantry, provides planning-ahead tips and clever culinary shortcuts, and offers an ocean of other advice designed to ensure smooth sailing during meal preparation.
RECIPES
Grilled Black Plum and Jicama Salad with Radicchio
This recipe is from Plum: Gratifying Vegan Dishes from Seattle’s Plum Bistro. Author Makini Howell likes this gluten-free, sharp-sweet salad in the shoulder season when late summer gives way to early fall. Delectable tart plums are at their best as the summer ends, while rich, bitter radicchio is just starting to come into its own. The ricotta helps tie their flavours together, while jicama gives the dish a nice layer of crunch.
Makes: 4 servings
For the salad
1 Tbsp canola oil
1 cup Basil Soy Ricotta (recipe follows)
• sea salt and freshly ground pepper
4 medium plums (about 3/4 pound), halved and pitted
2 large limes
1 large head radicchio, torn into bite-size pieces
1 small head butter lettuce, torn into bite-size pieces
8 ounces jicama, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch matchsticks (about 1 cup)
4 serrano chilies, seeded and thinly sliced
For the dressing
2 Tbsp olive oil
2 Tbsp agave syrup
1/2 tsp sea salt
1/2 tsp freshly ground pepper
To make the salad, heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add the ricotta and cook for five to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it browns on the bottom and acquires a drier texture. Set aside.
Preheat a stovetop or outdoor gas grill for five minutes on high heat.
Sprinkle the salt and pepper evenly over the cut side of the plums, both the edges and inside cavity. If using an outdoor grill, oil the grate so the plum skins don’t stick. Grill the plums for two to three minutes on each side, until distinct grill marks form. Remove the plums to a plate and set aside.
Zest the limes, taking care to avoid the bitter pith, then juice them, reserving the juice for the dressing. (You’ll need 4 tsp of zest and 1/4 cup juice.) Put the radicchio, lettuce, jicama, lime zest and chilies into a large bowl and toss gently. Set aside while you make the dressing.
To make the dressing, whisk the oil, reserved lime juice, agave syrup, salt and pepper in a medium bowl.
To serve, divide the salad among four plates. Arrange two plum halves on top of the salad on each plate. Drizzle the dressing over the salad and sprinkle the ricotta on top.
Basil Soy Ricotta
The trick to this gluten-free recipe is using a mild-flavoured, firm silken tofu and draining it completely. This will give you a sturdy, creamy ricotta that, when cooked, takes on a slightly crumbly texture. If you use a blender instead of a food processor, make the ricotta in two batches so it doesn’t get overworked.
Makes: about 2 1/2 cups
1 (14- to 16-oz) package firm silken tofu (such as Island Spring’s Silken Firm Tofu), completely drained
1 tsp dried basil
1/2 tsp chopped garlic
1 tsp sea salt
1 tsp freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tsp evaporated cane juice
2 1/2 Tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice (from 1 medium lemon)
2 Tbsp chopped fresh basil leaves (about 5 large)
Put the tofu, dried basil, garlic, salt, pepper, oil, cane juice and lemon juice (or more lemon juice to taste) in a blender or the bowl of a food processor. Blend in short bursts until the mixture is smooth, about three to five minutes. Add the fresh basil and continue blending until it’s thoroughly incorporated and the mixture is creamy, about 15 to 20 seconds. It will keep in the refrigerator for seven to 10 days.
Halibut Tacos With Red Cabbage and Cilantro Slaw and Avocado Cream
This recipe is from Sea Salt: Recipes from the West Coast Galley, by Alison Malone Eathorne, Hilary Malone and Lorna Malone. The authors say in this recipe the dry rub on the halibut creates a spicy crust. The red cabbage and cilantro slaw and lime-infused avocado cream enhance the fish with their bright flavours.
Makes: 4 servings (12 small tacos)
For halibut
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp fresh thyme leaves
1⁄4 tsp dried oregano
1⁄4 tsp cayenne
1⁄2 tsp sweet smoked paprika
1⁄2 tsp black pepper
1⁄4 tsp fennel seeds, crushed
1⁄4 tsp onion powder
11⁄2 lbs halibut filets, skin removed
Preheat oven to 350 F. Combine salt, herbs and spices (excluding the cilantro) in a bowl. Coat halibut with this dry rub. Bake until firm to the touch, approximately 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from oven and keep warm under foil.
For red cabbage and cilantro slaw
1 tsp liquid honey
1⁄2 tsp ground cumin
• juice of 1 lime
1⁄4 cup canola oil
• salt and pepper
2 cups shredded red cabbage
1⁄3 cup shredded red onion
1⁄3 cup roughly chopped cilantro
In a large bowl, combine honey, cumin, lime juice and canola oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Toss in cabbage, onions and cilantro. Set the slaw aside.
For avocado cream:
1⁄2 cup sour cream
• juice of 1 lime
1 Tbsp each chopped cilantro, mint and flat-leaf parsley
1⁄3 cup olive oil
1 large avocado, pitted and peeled
• salt and pepper
In a deep bowl, pulse ingredients together with an immersion blender. If you don’t have an immersion blender, mash avocado with a fork and whisk.
To assemble tacos:
12 small corn tortillas
1 small handful cilantro, for garnish
Warm corn tortillas in a frying pan or in the oven. Flake the halibut. Fill each tortilla with halibut, slaw and avocado cream and top with cilantro.
Anna Hunt’s Kale Caesar
This recipe is from On the Flavour Trail (TouchWood Editions, $29.95), a collection of recipes by members of the Island Chefs’ Collaborative (iccbc.ca)
Makes: 6 servings
For the dressing
1/2 of a 2-oz can anchovies
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 egg
2 dashes Worcestershire sauce
• juice of 1/2 a lemon
1 clove garlic
1 tsp salt
1 cup vegetable oil
For the croutons
2 cups torn sourdough bread
3 Tbsp olive oil
1 Tbsp minced garlic
• pinch of fresh stemmed thyme leaves
• pinch of salt
• cracked pepper, to taste
For the salad
2 bunches of Red Russian kale (or substitute Lacinato kale)
1/2 cup cooked chopped bacon
• pinch of salt
1 cup shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
6 marinated white anchovies (or more, depending on your taste)
Preheat the oven to 350 F.
Place all dressing ingredients except the oil in the bowl of a food processor. With the motor running, very slowly add oil to form a mayo-like dressing. Set aside and prepare the croutons and salad.
Toss together crouton ingredients in a bowl. Place on an ungreased baking sheet and toast in the hot oven for 20 minutes, or until golden brown and crispy.
Wash and stem kale, spinning or patting until very dry. Tear or chop kale into large but manageable pieces.
In a large bowl, mix together kale, bacon, croutons and desired amount of dressing with a pinch more salt. Plate individual salads, or serve in a serving bowl, and garnish with Parmigiano-Reggiano and anchovies.
Eric Akis is the author of the hardcover book Everyone Can Cook Everything. His columns appear in the Life section Wednesday and Sunday.