Fashion. Italy. Milan. Dolce & Gabbana.
A couple of words that fit together so seamlessly in our minds. But what happens if we add another word?
Fashion. Italy. Milan. Dolce & Gabbana. Muslim.
And that is exactly what D&G did. Just as 2016 was ushered in with all the pomp of another new year, they dropped a brand-new collection. And as usual, all eyes in the fashion world turned to the fashion house known for its unique feminine look to see what new trends had arrived. But they were in for a surprise; this line did not offer silk form-fitting dresses or lace lingerie. This one was all about flowing dresses that swept the flour and matching delicate printed scarves. Haute couture in the Western fashion industry now included another definition and manifestation: that of the demure, chic lady.
Muslim women have long been experimenting with clothes and over hundreds of years have seen all different styles. Muslims make up a quarter of the world’s population, which makes just under 1 billion females. It’s a massive market that is virtually untapped but which has seen exponential growth in the last decade. Islamic fashion is one of the industry’s fastest growing markets estimated to surpass CDN $414 billion by 2020. Such a move was therefore expected and came as no surprise.
But D&G’s decision created some intense response amongst its target: some applauded it wholeheartedly while others condemned it completely. It’s not like the move is new; it follows the launch of DKNY’s Ramadan lines and H&M’s Muslim-model advertisements. So why the clashing response?
The two camps, both passionate and with many speakers, tell two sides of this story. On the one hand are those who see and welcome an act of inclusivity at a time when Muslims, and the women in particular, are facing unprecedented negative scrutiny. Others see a much-needed representation of the Muslim Western style that is so craved by the new generation of children, born and raised in an environment so unlike their parents. On the opposing side are those who see a commodification of symbols of modesty and religion, or cultural appropriation, or a capitalist venture supporting the unequal distribution of wealth amongst the world’s population.
Now, there is no doubt that in all likelihood, D&G did not make their decision for any of these reasons. They did not aim to support or to spite. Rather, it was a simple decision on profit returns and they went after the money, like all businesses are made to do. But I still thought about all these rivalling ideas and came to these conclusions:
- They did not think of the hijab or the abaya as an Islamic thing or a modest thing, but as an article of clothing. Because in its raw essence, that’s what it is. There is nothing in our religion that makes these two things, in those exact forms, to be the representation of our religious values; in reality anything loose from a skirt, cardigan, or blouse to a dress, robe, or shawl can do the job. In fact, some women just use a length of cloth artfully (or not) draped over themselves. But meaning we attach to the clothing comes from ourselves. It is we who make or buy these things that have the power to turn it from a clothing into something much more. To infuse it with our values and identity so that it speaks silently to others.
- Islam is a religion sent to all peoples, and as such has spread to the four corners of the Earth. It reached Italy, North Africa, and Southeast Asia (namely India) in the same century (7th century) roughly in a 50-year span. In fact, parts of Italy…and Sicily specifically, would remain a part of the Islamic empire for over 600 years with large populations living in what was their homeland until the 1300s, and the influences can still be seen throughout the country including the language and culture of Domenico Dolce’s Sicily. I don’t know then that I could say an Italian has less of a right than a North African or a Southeast Asian in this realm.
- Social marketing and subliminal messaging is real, and so too is the politicising of Islam and more specifically a Muslim woman. Canada just went through an ugly period when the Muslim woman became the representation of oppression and backwardness, a target for ban and a tool for forwarding political careers. It backfired here but it is a scene repeating all over the world…with the Republican campaign in the US and the rising islamophobic anti-refugee sentiments in Europe. This representation of a Muslim woman as beautiful, as accepted, and as modern counters those images even if it is unintentional. Muslim women do not need to be told these things, but an increasingly misinformed world will benefit no doubt.
And with all these debates going on, there was one more that I mused upon.
Since Adam and Hawa (Eve) first covered themselves upon coming to this Earth, people have been creating, wearing, and enjoying clothes. The slew of emotions and opinions this last week reminded me of a hadith. Over 1400 years ago, Prophet Muhammad once told the people gathered: No one will enter Paradise who has an atom's weight of pride in his heart.A man said, "What if a man likes his clothes to look good and his shoes to look good?" He said, "Allah is beautiful and loves beauty. Pride means denying the truth and looking down on people."
A $7,000 abaya and a $350 hijab are without a doubt very (very, very) highly priced. But this hadith reminded me to beware of judging a person based on their wealth. We are accustomed to remembering this in terms of those with little…but it also applies to those with more than average. Could I say a person wearing something off of this D&G line has embraced pride and is showing off their wealth while shunning humility? And I realized that I couldn’t. Just like the man talking to the Prophet so many years ago, I love to wear things that look nice. I browse for the nicest abaya or dress or shoes or hijab, the one that matched my taste. Now one of D&G’s items is definitely out of my price range (or else I’d shop there for sure!). But if I pick a $200 abaya and another sister picks a $7000 one, it is only our intentions that count. I can easily look down on someone as can the other sister, and both of our blessings comes from not thinking our integrity is somehow greater due to the clothes we choose.
Dolce & Gabbana are going after the money.
As for me, I like beautiful things and am trying to live my life in God’s Grace. It took lots of contemplation but I realized that it’s fine. I’m glad that D&G see the Muslim women as a good market to cater towards. (Which also means they have now gained influence in the company as consumers, since their money has a very loud voice!). I am glad that a positive image embracing the values of modesty is being promoted and that young girls in Canada, the US, and elsewhere can now see themselves included and represented. I am also glad that people are having these discussions and thinking critically about all aspects of such a move.
May every woman have the time and opportunity to think about what this all means to them personally. And may we remember that regardless, we are the ones with the power to give something meaning and to embrace humbleness regardless of the clothes we choose to wear.
Maryam Baksh is a student at University of British Columbia. She is a member of the Muslim community and lives in Vancouver with her family.
YOu can read more articles from our interfaith blog, Spiritually Speaking, HERE
